Gessler at Daquise is homemade Polish food, calorific, elegant and with more than a whiff of Old Europe. Long established on Thurloe Street and among London's Polish community, the Daquise first opened in 1947. It is now run by the Gesslers, a family of Polish restaurateurs whose Warsaw address, U Kucharzy (The Chefs) in the converted former hotel kitchen of the Europejski Hotel, was once a notorious meeting place for Communists, and is now adorned with a Michelin star. The gold lacquer painted walls, fresh daffodils, mustachioed Polish maitre'd and chefs who serve the food at table directly from the steaming and oily pan exude Daquise's 1920s Warsaw ties and the food is a testament to Poland's delicious cultural heritage. The fragrant pierogi is attended with a sprig of fresh dill. Sour cream is elegantly apportioned by the waiter from a ceramic bowl that seems designed for this purpose only. The marinated beetroot salad is lavishly dressed with fresh horseradish sauce. Salmon and potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage and Kielbasa rotate on the menu. Gird for the rich food with homemade vodka and don't be surprised if the second round's served by maitre'd and on the house.