Portland

Alpine for You...

From Zefiro to Bluehour, Chef Chris Israel's local restaurant lineage is unimpeachable, so his new Grüner Restaurant has inspired a lot of curiosity. Israel's notion of "Alpine" cuisine (as broad-based as Mediterranean, but more northerly) scores some real hits, including tarte flambée, an Alsatian thin-crust pizza with caramelized onions, smoked bacon, and crème fraîche. A deal at $9, it's ample enough for a light dinner for two, paired with a "Grüner salad" of lettuce, fennel, celery, and Chioggia beets. Entrées, though well made, lack the same zing. Cases in point: Grilled Golden Trout with horseradish cream, broccoli, toasted pine nuts, and Yukon gold potatoes, and the bland Kavalierspitz of Viennese braised beef in a broth with baby carrots and turnips. (The accompanying creamed spinach was a hot mess: only the color green indicated "spinach"). Like the monochrome décor, both dishes failed to inspire. But kudos to attentive, efficient waiters who actually know the wines they're serving. My glass of Lagrein Schreckbichl Colterenzio Alto Adige, from the part of Italy closest to Austria, was as food-friendly as any Pinot Noir. I’ll be back to try Grüner’s bar food, especially the "hambürger" with gruyere and bacon.

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“Fen-oo-EE”

There aren't many restaurants in fleece-lined Portland where a man can wear a nice jacket and a woman can rock a slinky cocktail dress without feeling a bit de trop. That's not just me talking--that's the view of Fenouil's new chef Jake Martin, who embraces the luxe ambience and French cuisine of his new home. A two-story establishment with a wall of windows overlooking Jamison Square, Fenouil recruited Martin (a veteran of high-end Seattle restaurants Union, Veil, and Tilth) to uphold the standards set by departing chef Pascal Chureau. He does. His seafood is especially good, whether it's a crudo of diver scallop or roasted halibut with braised morels and speck emulsion. Pastry chef Kristen Murray (formerly at Lucier) is just as accomplished, but more of a risk-taker. Her Baked Alaska with chicory, hop-infused ice cream, warm chocolate, and a beer marshmallow is the most interesting thing I've eaten this year--strangely and unexpectedly delicious. One off note: at these prices, the sloppy menu French (Chapignons? Avacado? Les moules el les Palourdes? Bouef?) is inexcusable. But Fenouil’s service is topnotch, the kitchen deftly accommodates dietary restrictions, and the 4-6 pm happy hour caters to the cash-strapped.

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Ace of Stays

You don't need hipster credentials to stay at Portland's Ace Hotel--the mere act of spending a night here will magically transform even the dweebiest dweeb into a righteous indie rocker. For starters, there's the downtown block it sits on, with Clyde Common and its communal tables anchoring one corner and pastrami palace Kenny & Zuke's anchoring the other. A branch of Stumptown Coffee adjacent to the Ace's lobby completes the food-forward trifecta. Then there are the Ace's guestrooms, which range from singles with shared bathrooms to spacious suites with private clawfoot baths. Furnishings in all rooms could best be described as nouveau Spartan, and original artworks abound, dripping irony. In a nod to the vinyl revival, some rooms feature turntables. If you actually intend to spend any time sleeping, your best bet is a "Standard Back," away from noisy Stark Street. If any part of the Ace retains a loving hint of pre-hipster Portland, it's the comfortable lobby. Relax and enjoy the parade.

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Mmmmm...Pastrami

You've got to respect a restaurant critic who puts his money where his mouth is. The "Zuke" of Kenny & Zuke's is Nick Zukin, aka "ExtraMSG," an avid local food blogger who did something unexpected--he went into business with longtime restaurateur Ken Gordon. Together, they're creating world-class pastrami inside a world-class downtown deli on the same block as the uber-hip Ace Hotel. Gordon and Zukin's version may not taste precisely like the pastrami at Katz's in New York, but it's on its way to creating its own legend. You can get it in a Reuben sandwich, a Reuben salad, a "Maven's Meat Sampler," an omelet, or even a hamburger (what a brilliant idea!). This being a full-on deli, you can also order chewy bagels, bialys, blintzes (a real rarity in white-bread Portland), and dozens of different sodas, including 10--yes, 10!--root beers. Don't worry, there's also real beer, bottled and draft, with Oregon brews rotating among four taps. The service is brisk but not brusque, and much as I love the pastrami, I also love the diverse crowd--you'll see as many orthopedic shoes as Doc Martens here.

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Shop Local

As nice as the Internet is (and it is very nice) being able to click through tons of webcomics and artists' homepages doesn't really replace the feeling of going into a gallery or shop, especially when it comes to locally produced art. Being able to pace around a gallery, or leaf through a zine, is still great, especially in a place where you just might find the very artist whose work you're admiring in the same space with you. The Pony Club offers plenty for anyone interested in Portland's local art scene. The gallery features shows and release parties, and the racks are full of comics and other work, happily written and published by ink-stained Portlanders. This is precisely where you go if you want to find what's uniquely local, what makes Portland Portland. Have a look at the art. Buy a local comic. Ask whoever is in there about the art- they'll have something to say about it. Portland is full of writers and artists, and this is precisely the kind of place to find them.

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Indian, Elegant

There are only two Indian restaurants in Portland that I would call "handsome." One is the venerable Plainfield's, and the other is East India Co. Grill & Bar. A hideaway across the street from Portland’s Central Library, East India Co. fools you. At the entrance all you see is a long, narrow bar, but it opens onto a softly lit dining room. Plush curtained booths line one wall, and a mandala-like skylight casts a rosy glow over the dining tables. Sometimes a lovely room camouflages a mediocre menu. Not here. From the pakora to the kebabs to the vindaloo, dinner fare is executed with high-quality ingredients and balanced, intricate seasonings. Lunch offers three prix fixe options. The mid-sized Viceroy's Lunch ($12.95) features potato samosas with tamarind chutney; a choice of chicken, lamb, or paneer kebabs; and curry with basmati rice. Naan bread is included (of course!), as is dessert. My sweet tooth favors the classic gulab jamun, a doughnut drizzled in a cardamom/rosewater/saffron syrup. As for cocktails, they also trend towards the sweet. The best antidote to the spiciest dishes? The Sharaabi Lassi, made with Sub Rosa Saffron Vodka (from an Oregon distiller) and mango lassi.

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