San Francisco

Cash only? Not a problem

Oakland's Chinatown is an unquestionably great place to grab lunch, but the cash only policy just doesn't work for people like me who don't carry a whole lot of cash. Take-out dim sum is an option, but then I wouldn't have anywhere to sit down and properly enjoy my rice noodle rolls or shrimp dumplings. And while BC Deli is known primarily for its banh mi sandwiches, there are a great selection of Vietnamese plate dishes, like roast chicken over rice, imperial rolls, and noodle soups, all for less than $5. You could probably afford to head for the refrigerator and treat yourself to one of the colorful drinks, and maybe pick up some dinner as well. The food may not be up to the quality of a proper sit-down restaurant (this is more of a take-out place) and the ambiance is no-frills, but if all you have is pocket change, it's more than satisfying.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Soul Quenching

There is nothing better on a cold day than a big steaming bowl of chicken soup.  Each culture has its own version of chicken soup but I think that my favorite is the Vietnamese chicken pho which is known as pho ga.  I often go to a restaurant, aptly named Pho Ga Huong Que Cafe, that specializes in pho ga.  Hands down this is one of the best bowls of pho ga that I’ve ever had.  Not only is the broth flavorful and the noodles plentiful but the pho ga is served with a complimentary side of a scallion ginger sauce for dipping.  Words cannot even describe how good this sauce is!  I want an IV of this sauce hooked up to me at all times.  It jettisons the incredibly good soup into the beyond insanely good range.  Pho Ga Huong Que Cafe goes all out because they offer their pho ga with a choice of four different types of noodles (rice stick is highly recommended) and with different preparations of chicken (skinless, boneless, with skin, with bones, white, dark, etc.)  Expect to pay under $6 for this bowl of glorious soup; add a buck for an extra large bowl.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Rise and Shine

Every brunch joint has one signature item that allows it to stand out from the rest. For the Cock-a-Doodle Cafe in Old Oakland, it's the graham cracker-crusted, strawberry ricotta stuffed French toast, accompanied by a choice of bacon, ham, or chicken apple sausage. Even though I try never to order the same dish twice, and there are plenty of delicious-looking choices on the menu here, I could stick with that same item on each visit. You won't find such ingeniously-crafted French toast anywhere else. If you don't care for a sweet brunch, there are plenty of equally enticing savory items, like huevos rancheros, an assortment of omelettes, chipotle shrimp tacos, and chef Blanca Arechiga's fried egg sandwich. I'm sure you can't go wrong with any of those choices, but I may very well end up falling back on my tried and true. It really is that good.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Make Farmer Brown Happy

Even in a down economy, there are certain institutions worthy of our continued support, among them our local farmers markets. Oakland's Grand Lake Farmers Market, considered by many to be the best in the East Bay, features more than 50 local vendors selling everything from farm fresh produce, specialty foods, and artisan crafts. You can pick up everything from peaches and heirloom tomatoes to duck salame and handcrafted soaps. There is also no shortage of lunch options, which include organic Thai and vegan soul food. You're not likely to find such a selection of goods at the mall. If nothing else, the market a great excuse to get out of the house on a Saturday morning rather than sleep in or sit in front of the TV. It's almost summer already, so why do you want to stay indoors anyway?

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Farmers Markets • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Even Flow

From the west coast, it's a long way to the Caribbean. But the reincarnation of a former San Francisco restaurant in Jack London Square brings it a little closer to us, even if it's not 100% authentic and lacks the rustic ambiance that the you'd find in the islands. Part-Caribbean, part-fusion soul food, the elegant Miss Pearl's offers some of the traditional favorites, like jerk chicken with rice and beans and plantains as well as some more innovative dishes, like babyback ribs glazed in guava and crunchy calamari with a crunchy citrus glaze. I'd hesitate to even describe it as Caribbean it's more of a Californian fusion restaurant, but still good nonetheless. Save room for a dessert, each of which carries a tropical twist.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Monks

Imagine you're in Europe. You're walking down a cobblestone street on a rainy evening, and you duck into a neighborhood pub to grab a pint and catch up with your mates. It's not hard to imagine at the Trappist in Old Oakland. The owners modeled this beer bar after their favorite European pubs, and as the name suggests, the Trappist is big on Belgian beers. They have a bottle list with close to 150 brews from which to choose. Feeling overwhelmed? Not sure how to tell a Westvleteren from a Grimbergen? Not to worry. The staff is incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. They'll make recommendations and pour samples from the tap so you can see what you like before you order. And if Belgians aren't your thing, they offer plenty of craft beers from around the US, and there are always a few California microbrews on the rotating tap.

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Nightlife • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Just Like the Old Country

It's no secret that I'm an ice cream fan, especially those with unique flavors. And so when I heard about Gelato Firenze, just a stone's throw from the Grand Lake Theater, I knew that was another one I had to try. Though the plain shop front and dubious environs (it's located by a KFC) don't do much to attract attention, it may be just as well. You won't have to deal with throngs of customers to enjoy some of the best gelato in the Bay. Most of the flavors are pretty ordinary but full of flavor, and the gelato is produced on the premises, just as they would be at the best gelaterias in Italy. I ordered pomegranate and green tea, which did not disappoint, not noticing at first the merlot, specked with chocolate and berries. Luckily, I grabbed a sample before I left, and it was exquisite.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Don't Fight the Feeling

As a Berkeleyite, there's a special place in my heart for the Cheeseboard. There can be only one place like it, right? So until now I've avoided Arizmendi, with three locations operated by the same Collective as the original. I figured it couldn't measure up to the Holy Grail. But with the Cheeseboard closed on Sundays, and my weekday and Saturday schedules so busy, I rarely have the chance to pop in for a cheese roll or scone anymore. So on a recent Sunday afternoon, I found myself walking along Lakeshore and decided to stop by at the local branch. While the interior was virtually identical, there were some goodies I would never find at the Berkeley location. Sure, there were the chocolate things, wolverines, cheese rolls, and muffins, but also almond snails, manchego sundried-tomato scones, and even daily specialty breads like chili Pumpkinseed Sourdough, and Mushroom Sage sourdough. I enjoy having variety, and it wasn't until now that I discovered what I've been missing out on. Now I realize I shouldn't have written this place off earlier.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Late Night Lover

If you're a strict vegetarian, vegan or just a stickler about your health then hit the back button now. Seriously. I'm warning you, this spot is so over-the-top greasy spoonish that just reading this is guaranteed to raise your cholesterol. No veggie options here dammit, I'm betting even the fries are cooked in lard. But on the other hand, after a long night of drankin' and debauchery nothing hits the spot like that 3am quarter pound of greasy love and a side of fries. And for that, we love Quarter Pound. The burgers are fair to tasty and the fries are plentiful, and since it's one of the only spots in the area open late, what choice have ya got? Conveniently parked near the hood and just south of Grand Ave., QP is a close stumble from downtown's various club scenes. And as a result the late night wildlife varies from hipsters to hip hop heads, lesbians to gallery goers, all brought together to diligently shun panhandlers while waiting for a late night charred beef fix. Quarter Pound Burgers--one of life's great artery-clogging equalizers.

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Restaurants • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

The Birth of the Cool

Something's been brewing over at the Oakland Museum. Something big, young and definitely cooler than their significant but admittedly geriatric permanent collection. Earlier this year the museum began a multimillion dollar, multiyear renovation to expand the galleries and bring in a younger audience, and while the dust is just starting to get kicked up on the building upgrades, the museum's attendance has already undergone quite a facelift. Recent art parties and movie screenings have been luring the 20-30 crowd and the events surrounding the current Cool Remixed exhibit suggest that the staff is serious about changing the museum's demographics and competing on a level with the big boys across the bay. For Cool Remixed, the companion to the Birth of the Cool exhibit focusing on Cali culture, teams of teens from the area's youth programs took over the Great Hall and covered it in graffiti, video and skateboard installations along with crafts and fashions; there's a pretty broad section of art, fashion and music on display. They even brought in a Scraper Bike-Oakland's next big culture export. If they keep up like this, I might not even need to cross the bay to get my museum fix anymore. SFMOMA who?

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Landmarks • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

The People

To truly be a man or woman of the people, one must walk as the people walk, talk as the people talk and dance one's ass off ass like the people dance their asses off. Do this and the love will flow like wine. That seems to be the underlying secret to the success of "The People," the Oakland house and broken beat banger that spreads soulful love across the dance floor on the last Saturday of every month. Chill is the operative word-the folks are cool, the smiles are wide and the vibe is generally more laid back than most spots across the bridge. And while the Bay is an electronic music mecca, a lot of the parties lean more towards the techy, knob twisting shores while The People swims in deeper waters. The rotating cast of DJs dig into the soul music crates and dish out some of the best in deep, tribal house, broken beat and nu jazz. And when the weather's warm the night stretches out into an afternoon long affair with barbecue, vendors and live acts kicking things off around 5ish. Come with a passion for sweaty communion and a hunger for late night rhythms and The People will greet you with open arms.

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Nightlife • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Art Star

In the last couple of years new art galleries have been popping up all around the downtown area, bringing some much needed flavor to the Oakland art scene. But at a ripe old age of 5, the Joyce Gordon Gallery is the reigning matriarch, holding shit down on 14th St. with one of the few African-American owned gallery spaces in the Bay. With high-end shows by international art stars like Raymond Saunders and an impressive roster of local and nationally known visual artists, the gallery already had a strong rep, but for the Big 5 Gordon has stepped up her game, hosting an international tribute to photographer James Van Der Zee in the new downstairs photo gallery while vying for Oaktown street cred with August's graffiti and "Street Calligraphy" show by TCB, one of the Bay's original bombing crews. Can't wait to see how she wrecks shop for her 10th.

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Art Galleries • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Puff Puff Pass

It's not nearly as easy to get high in downtown Oakland as it was a few years ago. Back in the green old days, before federal agents swept in and went all "war on drugs" up in the spot, there were coffee shops and medicinal cannabis dispensaries all around. Now just about all the downtown Cannibus Clubs have been snubbed out like blunt roaches, but Oaksterdam University and the companion Oaksterdam Gift Shop still keep the torch burning while tutoring young pot Jedis in the hazy green ways of The Force. The Oaksterdam Gift Shop is like your pothead 7-11, while the university offers semester-long classes on subjects ranging from horticulture to the legalities of setting up your own "Cannibusiness." Need some 1.5 Zig Zags, a weed leaf shot glass and the latest edition of The Oaksterdam Times, stat? Need to navigate the intricacies of Proposition Z while learning how to set up a grow room in your attic? Oaksterdam's got the higher learning you crave. And while you won't score any actual ganj at either spot, between the two businesses it's a pretty safe bet that when you do cop some herb, you'll be the most well-equipped smoker in the room.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

The Art of Footwear

Sneaker freaks are a strange breed that I'll admit have left me scratching my head a few times and wondering just what the fuck I was missing out on. I mean $600 bucks for some kicks? Dude, please. But even though I can't see what makes cats wait in line for hours for the latest version of Nike Dunks, I will admit that Verse is one bad ass shoe store. Excuse me: One bad ass Sneaker Boutique. And I can say that with a completely straight face, because the shop really is on some other ish. The spot's like a fine art gallery for sneakers with limited editions and hand painted gems out the yin yang. One wall is covered with bright day glow shoes in more colors than Dorothy's rainbow. And when you walk in there's a slight feeling you're in some kind of shoe store Oz-way more futuristic than it's Old Oakland address leads you to believe. The rest of the store is peppered with one-of-a-kind T-shirts, accessories and artwork by local street artists to round out your street chic. No doubt if I was going to drop a couple of bills on some footwear, this would be the place.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Skate or Die!

It's been said you can judge the vitality of a downtown by the quality of it's skateboard scene. Well, to be honest, I'm probably the only one who's ever said that but it doesn't make it any less true. In my anything but humble opinion, if you're going to have a thriving downtown, with all the shops and the people and the hustle and the bustle--which is what downtown O seems to be reaching for--you've got to have the skaters to add some color and authenticity. I mean, what good is all that new architecture and development if there's no one there to rock a front side grind on the stairs, feel me? Lucky for you Clean has everything you need to go fuck shit up on the streets and show your Oaktown love at the same time. The owners are big into the local skate scene and carry a large selection of local merch-everything from Comet Skateboards and Political Gridlock T shirts to Colour of Shadow street art zines and CDs by local hip hop groups-in addition to a wide range of decks, trucks mags and random skater ephemera. And the half pipe and art gallery in the back, combined with random one off parties, make the this the go-to spot for da area yout's. As long as we've got Clean, downtown's got hope.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Vinyl Mine

Screw what 3-6 Mafia said about it being hard out here for a pimp, it's really hard for a vinyl junkie. While you can download and burn tunes till you're blue in the face, choices are getting slim for those of us who need the crackle of acetate. And if you're a soul, funk and jazz head, spots for digging are getting scarcer than Cecil Taylor piano solos on mainstream radio. But take heed, junkies--we've got the Funky Soul Stop. The downtown shop has kept The Town in grooves for the last 16 years. With a collection of old school jazz, R&B and funk stacked next to 8 tracks and books, you're never sure what you'll find. And while The Stop doesn't have the most comprehensive collection and prices might be just a little higher than across the bay, the shear eclecticism is enough to keep you coming back. I recently scored copies of Miles' Jack Johnson Sessions and Lou Rawls Live! for less than I'd spend on gas traveling to the shops in San Fran. Plus owner Ed Harris regularly holds record swap free-for-alls and performances inside the tiny shop that make regular stops at The Stop that much nicer. Viva la record stores!

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Fair Trade Go Juice

When the Golden Bull bar closed shop last year, denizens of Oakland's club scene gasped a collective beer breathed WTF!?! But when Awaken Cafe opened in the space a couple months ago, the promise of a cool new downtown business district continues to emerge. And besides, now there's somewhere to nurse hangovers on those Saturday mornings after Art Murmur. Run by Burning Man veterans Cortt Dunlap and Kari Christensen, Awaken serves up fair trade java, healthy snacks and organic tea and wine with a Burner's flair in a funky cool atmosphere. For the moment only the small upfront coffee bar is open to the public, but the coming months promise a late night lounge/art gallery/performance space out back featuring a rotating cast of your favorite Oaktown artists and rabble rousers.

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Art Galleries , Coffee • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Ain't No Food Court

I rarely go to farmer's markets for the produce. I know, I should support the farmers by buying from them directly, but for me the highlight is usually the food stands that accompany them. The food is always tasty, often wholesome, reasonably priced, and not likely to be found at a fast food outlet near you. The Old Oakland Farmer's Market, across the street from Chinatown among historic buildings, is certainly no exception. If I worked in Downtown Oakland, this would be my lunch spot every Friday. Whether you want falafel, Thai food, sausages or tamales, the place definitely beats a mall food court. And you can even pick up a roasted chicken and potatoes for dinner. Or pick up some exotic vegetables or artisan bread. Fridays, 8 am – 2 pm.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Tchochkes Galore

It’s an art gallery, it’s a boutique; it’s a hip shopping experience, it’s a forum for local artists. On an unassuming strip of Grand Avenue in downtown Oakland, Dana Taylor is the proprietor of Industrielle, a store that encompasses art, style, and a sense of community. The goods she features are a fanciful but stylish mix of home decor and fine art. Featuring and promoting local artists is the cornerstone of Taylor’s vision for the store, and with a monthly open house and participation in progressive, community-related events, Industrielle is doing its part for the local art scene and the greater world beyond Oakland. It’s a great place to stop off to find a gift--there are tchochkes galore as well as Oakland-themed attire, fun jewelry, and, of course, unique pieces of art. It’s a great place to find inspiration--and the perfect vase for that corner table in the living room.

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Shopping • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt

Heirloom Tomatoes

If you frequent the Oakland-Berkeley-San Francisco farmers markets, your eyes have adjusted to the glorious, colorful variety of tomatoes that choose this time of year to become ripe and delicious. There are cherry and grape tomatoes so sweet and juicy; you eat them like candy. Or, you might be purely attracted to the kind we call heirloom, the family jewels so to speak that are larger, edgier, grumpier and more imperfect than the standard red tomatoes you eat in your salad the rest of the year. With names like Brandywine, German Green, Cherokee Purple, Green Zebra, Marble Stripe, and Berkeley Tie-Dye, they have a teenage battle of the bands quality with a grown-up feel. At the Lake Merritt farmer’s market on Saturdays, Adrianna from Tomatero Farms sent me home with a bunch to try. One more delicious than the next, especially dipped in olive oil. If you’re looking for your next obsession, you might want to drop wine to be a tomato snob…err…connoisseur, where you can join an already growing number of people looking to savor the perfect tomato.

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Farmers Markets • Downtown Oakland / Lake Merritt