Chicago

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to sample America's best pizza without going nuts. Ever since GQ named Great Lake, the miniscule Andersonville eatery, as the best pizza in the country, you don't just get to buy a Great Lake pie, you have to earn it. You can certainly call in a pizza order, then wait two or three hours and just pick it up, but that's lame. For the real deal, show up at their teeny storefront before 5, put your name and number in, and then hit the bars and shops along Clark Street. It'll be awhile. Great Lake might be BYOB, but it's best if you leave your expectations at home. Once they finally call your phone, the owners are essentially inviting you to dine in their kitchen. The restaurant seats a whopping 14 people, and chances are you'll be sharing the big table with neighbors. The menu is eclectic and limited--you can only pick from 3 pizzas. But when you bite into an artisan crafted pie that you've waited 4 hours for, and when you taste that slightly salty crust like no other, you can murmur happily: "Mission Accomplished."

Photo:  Brendan Keating

If you want to get people in an argument quickly, get them talking about pizza. You'll find that everybody has a passionate opinion, and passion about pizza is what you'll find at Great Lake, where their crust has been carefully perfected. It's thin with a puffy, bubbly edge that's delightfully chewy when warm. It's so good, you almost don’t care about the toppings, but you'd be wrong not to. Toppings are regionally sourced, with cheese from Wisconsin and spinach from local growers. Of course, what's available has an impact on the menu, which changes monthly, with only four to five pizzas offered at any given time. A basic cheese usually has a spot, but other options can include mushrooms and spinach. And if that wasn't quirky enough for you, the tiny storefront location only seats fourteen, mostly at a communal table, and has irregular hours, so it's best to call ahead.

Photo:  Jill Jaracz