Chicago

There's this place you've got to try. It's in a strip mall right next to a Laundromat. That sounds like a joke but I'm serious. It's called Urban Belly. The interior is small but comfortable, a harmony of urban and rustic. Exposed duct work hangs over long Chinese Elmwood tables and wood block stools. The seating is communal so you won't have your own table but you might make new friends. The food, a modern take on Pan-Asian cuisine, is something too behold. Bill Kim is a master of flavors and every dish screams his praise. I want to write about everything but I'll stick to two dishes. I used to hate Kimchi until I had the seasonal Kimchi. It changed my whole outlook. A subtle spice and a punch of flavor make it perfect palette preparation. Main course: Bolognese. It's like a Mitsubishi with aftermarket Lamborghini doors--Asian styling and a healthy dose of Italian tradition. Everything is balanced masterfully. The delicate Soba noodles are bathed in a thick, rich, meaty sauce that's spiced perfectly. You can't go wrong no matter what you get. So call your friends and see if they want to go to the mall.

Photo:  Max M