New York

The barbecue at Fette Sau is delicious. The bar has great draft beers, well-executed cocktails, and a vast array of good bourbons. The staff is great. The space is charming. The only reason I'm not a regular--besides my desire to maintain a single-digit clothing size and relatively clear arteries--is the seating situation. While buying food at the counter then snagging a seat at a shared table works fine in the best small-town 'cue joints, New Yorkers driven mad by the moist, hot, meaty air get pushy, elbows jabbing, eyes boring holes into the heads of suspected loiterers. Think Zabar's on Sunday afternoon. Best to enjoy your pork at an uncrowded hour, or at least get a seat outside. The latter will also ensure that the overwhelming odor of smoked meat does not permeate your clothes and hair, not that that's a bad thing.

Photo:  Jennifer Keeney Sendrow