New York

Is tapas ever a win-win? Or, rather, a win-win-win-win-win-win-win-win-win? Not in my experience. So basically Olea’s batting average is around .700, which is off the charts if you’re A-Rod but just good enough if you’re a restaurant. Hits: Turkish cigars, grilled Halloumi cheese, goat cheese croquettes, Serrano ham croquettes, lamb meatballs (highly recommended). Misses: baby octopus (too tough, not very much flavor; go eat the octopus at Stamatis in Astoria and you’ll see what I mean) and falafel-crusted artichokes (sounds great on paper, totally dry in reality). So it’s essentially trial-and-error until you find your favorites, and then it’s dependable. And since it’s got a totally great vibe and a beautiful location on the corner of Adelphi and Lafayette in Fort Greene, we’ll renew their contract for 2008. But not for $32 million. No one’s that good.

Photo:  Rob Tallia