New York

Psst. I gotta guy in Queens, a closet foodie with neighborhood pride, slippin' me the dirt on new eats. He's been raving about Vesta, so I did some investigatin'. My guy, he knows his stuff. Vesta's an unlikely Italian nook in Greek Astoria that feels fresh and familiar at the same time. The smallish, diverse menu changes with each new shipment from the Rooftop Garden and balances classics with trendier combos. Pastas and pizzas are light and flavorful without being laden with sauces and cheese. They're also big, but not quite big enough to split, so sate your cheese-fetish by adding a small plate of baked Taleggio or sheep's milk ricotta. The entrees are tasty if not outstanding--I prefer my mama's lasagna, but who doesn't? Vesta knows where it shines, and says so in its URL: vino. Superbly-selected, by the shot and glass, with almost all bottles under $30. I've yet to try the Baby Jesus Cake, but my guy in Queens recommends it: "I mean, they named it after the son of God!" So go, enjoy, and don't thank me, thank my informant. He's the one holding the chicken.

Photo:  Molly Riordan