Brand New Old-Timey Eats
Monday, March 09, 2009
Want to impress your
foodie friends or prove to your parents that living in post-industrial Brooklyn is more than high rent and flaking plaster? Take
them to Vinegar Hill House. First, check your NFT to see where the heck this
non-neighborhood is, then lead them down the cobblestone path to obscure
fine-dining! We passed the restaurant twice before making it into the
organ-bedecked room warmed by the same wood-fired oven in which all the food is
cooked. The menu is alarmingly brief with three apps, four entrees, and a
special or two--soothe them with phrases like "seasonal produce" and "changes
weekly." The tartlet is a highlight with a palate-popping combo of stilton and
sweet-potato in gold-crisp crust. Everything else is solidly good: fish tender,
sweet and sour eggplant both sweet and sour. Meat is served on cutting boards,
water in old wine bottles, wine in tiny glasses (not BYO anymore, though
they've jumped on the Old Fashioned train with liquor license in hand)--all by
attractive flannel-clad twentysomethings. This enclave of rustic-refinement
won't be your new watering hole, but VHH is a trump card to defend your Brooklyn restaurant cred.
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Photo:
Molly Riordan
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