You've got to respect a restaurant critic who puts his money where his mouth is. The "Zuke" of Kenny & Zuke's is Nick Zukin, aka "ExtraMSG," an avid local food blogger who did something unexpected--he went into business with longtime restaurateur Ken Gordon. Together, they're creating world-class pastrami inside a world-class downtown deli on the same block as the uber-hip
Ace Hotel. Gordon and Zukin's version may not taste precisely like the pastrami at
Katz's in New York, but it's on its way to creating its own legend. You can get it in a Reuben sandwich, a Reuben salad, a "Maven's Meat Sampler," an omelet, or even a hamburger (what a brilliant idea!). This being a full-on deli, you can also order chewy bagels, bialys, blintzes (a real rarity in white-bread Portland), and dozens of different sodas, including 10--yes, 10!--root beers. Don't worry, there's also real beer, bottled and draft, with Oregon brews rotating among four taps. The service is brisk but not brusque, and much as I love the pastrami, I also love the diverse crowd--you'll see as many orthopedic shoes as Doc Martens here.
