It's hard to judge Londoners by their favourite restaurants. We all have a fully-stocked larder of eateries we frequent--adapting to every culinary occasion like cosmopolitan chameleons. We'll rough it over a hangover-challenging fry-up by day (E Pellicci (Map 92)), camp it up deluxe style by night (Ruby & Sequoia (Map 29)) and blow most of our wage on a bottle of champagne over Sunday lunch, just to celebrate pay day in the first place. The truth is--there’s so much choice, we can't really help it. We don't pay out extortionate rents just to cook spag bol ourselves, like the rest of the country. No. We choose to live in London, where the disproportionate amount of restaurants per capita leaves us no choice but to accept our fate and embrace the restaurant as foreplay to a damn good night out. After all, we have restaurants to suit every imaginable situation. Everyone has their local Italian; die-hard curry house; girly bistro where rosé becomes acceptable; guaranteed-a-shag-later candlelit brasserie; close-that-deal power lunch spot; greasy caff; and of course, that Sunday lunch gastropub where you can think about all of this over a massive Yorkshire pudding. Probably you don't need us, but we know how fickle London can be. We swear by our local one day, but the minute Gordon opens another reasonably over-priced gastropub, there goes that old favourite.
Eating For Britain
From pie shops to posh Sunday lunches, great British food has become our little pièce de résistance in the global restaurant scene. And like everything else, we do it with a bit of a nudge nudge wink wink. We rule the gastropub roost--especially when the likes of The Eagle (Map 6), Anchor & Hope (Map 104) and Great Queen Street (Map 13) opened their doors, taking a new look at British cuisine and putting it on our tables in ways we'd never seen it before, while other old standards refuse to budge from doing what they do best--partly because there's no one else on earth that can do it like them. The pie and mash at Clarks Pie and Mash (Map 6), for instance, is so good they'd have made Queen Victoria demanding: "Please sir, may I have some more?"
With the aftermath of the recession leaving us crying for mummy under piles of rejected bank loans, London's appetite for the most comforting of comfort foods on every corner is still running rampant. From the Raclette man oozing cheese over hot potatoes at Borough Market (Map 106) to Banger Bros. pitching up its stall outside of Euston Station (Map 78)--comfort food is everywhere. If you're in need of a gastronomical tribute to ol' Blighty try Roast (Map 106) for its native breed Mondays (promising only to use British meat); Boot and Flogger (Map 106), for some whiffy, yet delicious, Stilton and Port; and The Carpenter's Arms (Map 39) for gastropub fare that's as good as it gets.
For a Sunday lunch to savour try The Charles Lamb (Map 83) for a long-drawn out afternoon. Last but not least, London has some of the most sophisticated fish & chips around with über-fresh ingredients like at Brady's (Map 138), Fisher's Chips (Map 48), Tom's Place (Map 45), Sea Cow (Map 129), and Rock & Sole Place (Map 13). London is still a great place to eat British.
Caffs and Breakfast Joints
Few of us have time to actually eat it during the week, but nothing beats a breakfast when a hangover has descended. From a posh crumpet brunch at the Wolseley (Map 9) to the most traditional of caffs like Shepherdess Cafe (Map 83) or those that think outside of sausage n’ egg box like the Monte Cristo sandwich with maple syrup at Fish! (Map 106) of all places, breakfast really has become the most important meal of any Londoner's Saturday morning, anyway. All these are well and good, but if you can discover one of those rarities like the absolutely knock-you-on the floor-delicious Latin breakfast at El Vergel (Map 105), you know you must have rock-hard London karma. If you like people watching, there's Bar Italia (Map 12) or Smiths of Smithfield (Map 15). For healthier fare try The Larder (Map 15). For a Turkish take on a fry-up try Archgate Cafe (Map 60) or if you like your morning meal more Yank than rank try anything at The Breakfast Club (Map 80). The best greasy spoons include Jeff’s Café (Map 18), Mario's Café (Map 72), and Marie's Café (Map 104).
Credit Crunch Lunches
The recession has had its way with us, leaving a path of destruction in its wake and although the so-called 'credit crunch' is passée, we're still suffering in the ways of the wallet. Furthermore, there’s this nasty rumour--spread mostly by those out-of-towners who resent their commute yet insist on living two hours away--that London is no place for the impoverished restaurant lover, particularly in these economically unstable times. Such slanderers should be stopped at the M25 and made to pay double congestion charge. The truth is, if you know London, you know how to eat out for under £20 (and even under a tenner when particularly skint). We have plenty of true gems where you can boldly shout "I'll get this one!" all smugly moving ahead in the old restaurant rounds game, with your accompanying party none the wiser. We have to sing the praises of Cha Cha Moon (Map 10), once boasting a price of £3.50 for everything on the menu when it first opened, punters still don't have to reach too deeply in their wallets for spot-on char kway teow. Craving cheap as chips ciabattas? Try Bada Bing! (Map 6). Grab a bento for a fiver at Little Japan (Map 36). If you have no qualms re: pretense and just want to eat cheap try Sandwichman (Map 6) with its .65p gourmet, you guessed it, sandwiches, Tortilla (Map 80) for a quick burrito, Icco Pizza (Map 3) for £3.50 a pie and low-wonga wurst at Kurz + Lang (Map 15). Stuck in Chelsea without a trust fund? Try Le Columbier (Map 45). Now, go cash in on that overdraft and keep reading...
Eating On Trend
London du jour is one of tightening purse strings. Gone are the glory days of "putting it on expenses" ever since the media descended upon the MPs' love of fudging budgets. So while the yummy mummies and Sloane Rangers still roam, fashionable eating has become about being in-the-know over chic, "my little discovery" eateries where how much dosh you dish falls second fiddle to dishing the right nosh.
While Michelin-starred institutions like Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's (Map 2), Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester (Map 9) and Rhodes 24 (Map 17) still matter in this town, celebrities are now seen frequenting holes in the wall, as we hear Marc Jacobs likes slurping noodles at Hackney's Que Viet (Map 91). The real Big Smoke cognoscenti make their way to Beas of Bloomsbury (Map 5) for artisan cupcakes, Negozio Classica (Map 29) for latenight luxuriating over vino and sharing platters at Bocca di Lupo (Map 11)--with its sophisticated yet somehow affordable Italian fare. We've always been a city that loves a "bargain" alternative--like Jimmy Choo at H&M)--and we're still proud to say that for every celebrity chef hot spot, there's a high street version. If you can't afford the £95 per person price at Gordon Ramsay (Map 46) (and that’s without splashing out on the £10,000 bottles of wine), you’ll love York & Albany (Map 77). And if you lust over Tom Aikens, try Tom's Kitchen (Map 45), an ever-popular brasserie that still has a lot to write home about. Our current favourite, however, has to be Jamie's Italian (Map 101) for its awesome antipasti. So in this sprawling city, you can still eat like a king while the rest of the world moans about its financial woes.
For classically chic and delicious, try The Bleeding Heart (Map 15)--the bistro's better than the restaurant--or Galvin Bistrot de Luxe (Map 2). For a view, Galvin at Windows (Map 9), Skylon (Map 104), and Oxo Tower Wharf (Map 104) still reign supreme over London's skyline. If you're a visiting footballer's wife lurching around in 10-inch heels, try Balans (Map 11), Deep (Map 50), or Eight Over Eight (Map 44). Hipster deluxe joints include Village East (Map 107), The Market (Map 71) and Bistrotheque (Map 92). For absolutely delicious hype, try Moro (Map 6). Take mummy dearest to Aubergine (Map 44) or Morgan M (Map 74) when she's in town and if you like anything with a label, try J Sheekey (Map 24). But, if you want something worth every penny try Le Cercle (Map 46) or Wild Honey (Map 10). Pretty soon you'll be able to enter your fave fashionable joint and exchange noisy bisoux with the maitre d' (that's when you know you're in).
Going For A... (fill in the blank ethnic food)
In such an ethnically-diverse capital as this one, we savour our wide-range of foreign grub. For Londoners 'going for a curry' is an adventure which can encompass such a wide range of cuisines from Nepalese at Kathmandu Valley (Map 138) to Eritrean at Adulis (Map 135) and a kebab at Tayyabs (Map 96) or Beirut Express (Map 1) is more than just an ill-advised stop on the way to the night bus. We choose our indulgences carefully. We know how to avoid the incessant menu hawkers along Brick Lane on our way to the Beigel Shop (Map 91). After all, the best curry houses are rarely on this over-hyped thoroughfare--if you have to, try The Clipper (Map 91)--but tucked away on neighbouring streets are places like The Empress (Map 95) and Cafe Spice Namaste (Map 95) (get yourself dhal-ed up) or those a good tube ride away at Masaledar Kitchen (Map 151), Mirch Masala (Map 151), and The Punjab (Map 13).
The best Chinese food can be found around Chinatown, but you have to hunt. Your first stop should be Leong's Legends (Map 11) for to die for Taiwanese. Also try Friendly Inn (Map 12), Royal China (Map 30), Haozhan (Map 12),or delicious New World (Map 12) for killer custard dumplings. But why settle for Chinese when there are so many other Asian foods to try? Thai at Yum Yum (Maps 79, 64), Esarn Kheaw (Map 32), Thai Pavillion East (Map 131) and Su-Thai (Map 121); cheap and cheerful Malaysian at Malaysia Kopi Tiam (Map 12); greasy spoon Korean at Assa (Map 12) and over karaoke at Corean Chilli (Map 12); Singaporese at Singapore Garden (Map 66); Vietnamese at Hai Ha (Map 89) and Que Viet (Map 91); Japanese skewers at Bincho Soho (Map 12). And of course, because we're London, for every down-and-out corner spot, there's its posh cousin. Try glamorous Indian at Amaya (Map 19), stylish Thai at Crazy Bear (Map 3), and gourmet Malaysian at Champor-Champor (Map 106).
If you're looking for a neighbourhood Italian, try Metrogusto (Map 80) for its home-made pasta (ignore the art on the walls), Il Bordello (Map 96) and Tentazioni (Map 10). Mexican is continues to thrive with Green & Red (Map 91), Taqueria (Map 29) and Crazy Homies (Map 29). In terms of French, if you haven't noticed, this is the cuisine of choice for any Michelin-starred restaurant in this town worth its salt. But for those of us on a smaller budget there's Le Petit Prince (Map 72), Le Beaujolais (Map 12) and Savoir Faire (Map 4). For extraordinary tapas combinations right every time try The Providores (Map 2). One cuisine boom, which reflects that of the population, is of the Eastern European variety. For Polish, try (we're not kidding) Lowiczanka Polish Cultural Centre (Map 40) or Russian try Trojka (Map 70). If you can't decide, opt for one of London's craziest fusions that somehow works--Brazilian and Japanese at Sushinho (Map 45). Mango sushi anyone?
Eating Meat
Here's where we implore you, begging you on both knees, not to let yourself EVER stumble into one of those steakhouse chains, mainly around Leicester Square, that shall not be named. If we succeed in anything with this guide, it should be at least to give carnivores a decent alternative. If you're stuck on the Aberdeen Angus variety of beef, try the Popeseye Steakhouse (Map 33). But if you're open to other options, Argentinian steakhouses are really where it's at right now, with Gaucho (Map 8) at the forefront and Buen Ayre (Map 89) not far behind. If you want steak with a heart of gold (read: ethically sourced) try Hawksmoor (Map 91).
If you like your meat on a bun, go for The Diner's (Map 84) blue cheese burgers, Byron (Map 35) for the best local, and Haché (Map 71). If you'd rather someone else fired up your barbie, go for Bodean’s (Map 43) or Rodizo Rico (Map 80). If you're into eating things the rest of us see at the zoo, try Archipelago (Map 3) and Chakalaka (Map 136).
Eating Veggie
In a town full of yoga bunnies, eco warriors and Madonna, veggie restaurants are pretty prevalent. And lucky for us, they're not just serving up nut roast. There are places that even sworn meat-eaters love. Get your carnivorous best mate to try the sweet potato curry at Mildred's (Map 10) or the veggie food by the pound at Tibits (Map 10). If you're looking for a place to impress your new vegan girlfriend (you swear she's the one!), try Rootmaster (Map 91). But there are plenty of other goodies like Beetroot (Map 11) and Alara (Map 4). Also, remember Indian is always a good bet, like Rasa N16 (Map 64), Diwana Bhelpoori (Map 77) or Indian Veg Bhelpoori House (Map 80).
Our Guiltiest Pleasures
OK, so we avoid the golden arches at
all costs, steer clear of corporate coffee houses, and duck out of
lame pubs, but every Londoner has their guilty chain restaurant secret. Let's get this straight: few of us are
comfortable giving into these rare pleasures, and they most certainly
aren't your average High Street hiccup (please kindly leave this book
at the door if you're going to partake in a Wetherspoon
Curry Club). These are a carefully vetted bunch that, after endlessly
refuting their existence, we gave into without even realising it ("What?
They have free Wi-Fi!). Nando's (Map 106) for example. No one
realises their friends also
like this Portuguese chicken joint until they spot their best mate
dribbling over his Perinaise sauce at their local. Or there, Gourmet Burger Kitchen (Map 24), featuring meat mountains in buns to rival Kylie. On the other end of the spectrum is Le Pain Quotidien (Map 10). Try a tartine
with a bowl of hot chocolate and graduate to a glass of wine--no
one will judge, and we're pretty sure you'll never want to leave.
Our Favourite Restaurant (Because we're still skint!)
While every Londoner loves a good clean white table cloth, extensive tasting menus and a waiter at your every beck and call--let's face it: we're broke. It seems almost with the pain of the recession in mind (although the cheery and energetic staff act all but oblivious to the outside world) that Franco Manca (Map 144) opened its doors in Brixton Market to very hungry punters. The pizza here is perfect, and worth every moment on the endless queue that moves along in famished anticipation of the sour dough crusts and organic, ethically-sourced chorizo toppings. While awaiting our table underneath the diffused light of the marketplace's arches, a passerby challenges the growing crowd of would-be diners with: "All this, for pizza?" Only to be berated, almost in unison, by the dedicated many: "Yes, but this is pizza from the gods." If it were not enough that the pizzas here come as cheaply as £4 and the flowing red wine for £1.40 a glass, everything here--from the flour to the toppings, beer and cloudy lemonade--is made from only the best ingredients, all somehow good for the earth and our pockets at the same time. Now with a second branch opening in Chiswick (Map 38) and the potential for even more cropping up around the capital, we worry that the rough-around-the-edges authenticity to this London gem may not last forever but we hope we're proven very wrong.
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Wednesday, May 09, 2012
Posted By:
Emily Schmall
Photo:
Emily Schmall
Daquise
Gessler at Daquise is homemade Polish food, calorific, elegant and with more than a whiff of Old Europe. Long established on Thurloe Street and among London's Polish community, the Daquise first opened in 1947. It is now run by the Gesslers, a family of Polish restaurateurs whose Warsaw address, U Kucharzy (The Chefs) in the converted former hotel kitchen of the Europejski Hotel, was once a notorious meeting place for Communists, and is now adorned with a Michelin star. The gold lacquer painted walls, fresh daffodils, mustachioed Polish maitre'd and chefs who serve the food at table directly from the steaming and oily pan exude Daquise's 1920s Warsaw ties and the food is a testament to Poland's delicious cultural heritage. The fragrant pierogi is attended with a sprig of fresh dill. Sour cream is elegantly apportioned by the waiter from a ceramic bowl that seems designed for this purpose only. The marinated beetroot salad is lavishly dressed with fresh horseradish sauce. Salmon and potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage and Kielbasa rotate on the menu. Gird for the rich food with homemade vodka and don't be surprised if the second round's served by maitre'd and on the house.
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Monday, February 27, 2012
Posted By:
Emily Schmall
Photo:
Emily Schmall
Boisdale Canary Wharf
If you're confined to the corporate wasteland that is Canary Wharf, there's at least one place for a classy date. Step into Boisdale and experience 1950s nightlife in its finest incarnation -- the supper club. The red and gold décor coupled with jazzy crooners, high-end Scottish fare and a novella-length whisky menu are the perfect antidotes to a long day behind the desk. Try the rib-eye steak with creamy spinach in white truffle oil, or, if the plaid carpeting and mounted hog's head has you craving more traditional fare, you can't go wrong with the Scottish Blackface lamb, black pudding and sautéed kidneys. Finish your meal with one of among the thousand whiskeys on display served neat. Live music is on most nights but be aware that the standard seats have an obstructed view of the stage and the restricted seats are in a totally separate room.
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Monday, February 27, 2012
Posted By:
Emily Schmall
Photo:
Emily Schmall
Tayyabs
Behind a street cluttered with fried chicken shops sits the unassuming Tayyab's, whose inexpensive Pakistani delicacies have become so renowned that at 10 o'clock on a Tuesday night, the two-story dining room is jumping. The interior is austere, the food aromatic, the wait staff attentive. Reservations are essential at this Whitechapel institution established in 1972 as a Punjabi grill. The lamb chops starter, marinated in lime and garlic, is mouth-watering. The cardamom braised dry meat course is lovely and, despite the name, not at all dry. The hot, buttery naan is perfect for mopping up the mildly spicy curry. Tayyab's is BYOB so pick up a Cobra beer to wash it all down on the way.
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Thursday, December 15, 2011
Posted By:
Constance Mantle
Photo:
Constance Mantle
Lahore Kebab House
In all honesty, the BYOB policy of Lahore Kebab House was what originally attracted my party of 12 friends, but we left with our bellies and minds more full of delicious Pakistani dishes than of cheap drinks. You can't exactly describe is as an intimate restaurant (their Whitechapel establishment sits 350 people, and we went during Ramadan around sunset so you can imagine the debate!) but what they lack in cosy décor they make up with warm smothering flavours. The starters of spicy chicken skewers and street-style shish kebab wraps not only whetted but almost satisfied one's appetite, but nothing could stop us from completely devouring mains for lamb and spinach, bought sizzling in pewter bowls to our table, and the special of spicy lamb chop curry. The rice fluffy, the nan plentiful, our £3.50 Echo Falls barely touched.
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Posted By:
Natalie Ashett
Photo:
Natalie Ashett
London Fields Brewery
London Fields is developing at a rate of knots. The guys who brought us Broadway Market's Climpson & Son coffee shop have also brought a new type of brew to the east end.
In a railway arch just off London Fields station, the guys slave away seven days a week brewing beer the traditional German way.
Each weekend they open up with a different event be it a mini Oktoberfest with bratwurst ans sauerkraut, or some live music. It's a pretty sweet place top start the night and a cheap option for this area too. A pint of their finest ale costs £3 and they even have bottles to takeaway.
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