NFT London Shopping

London / Shopping

Yeah, okay, so we know the deal--don't mention the Recession. When it comes to retail, people will always spend whether money or no (that's how we got in this fine mess remember Stanley?), it's just that with little of the stuff about, people are more discerning about what they spend their hard earned cash/State Benefits on. And of course if we didn't spend we would never collectively crawl out of this endless dirge of gloom. As the well observed slogan on the reusable eco-shopping bag from Modern Toss (available at Magma, Map 12) says, “Buy More Shit Or We're All Fucked". Indeed. But if the economic crisis is teaching us anything it's to be more picky about what we purchase and for retailers not just to deliver the goods but also all the extras that we as polite English people so foolishly see as just "extras". Primarily what I mean is, that intangible thing that contributes to a satisfying shopping experience and brings a customer back to the same store again and again: excellent service--helpfulness, genuine smiles and interest in the product and the customer. Beautiful packaging, loyalty cards, discounts, samples, invites to in-store events all help too. In an adverse way, consumers have never had more power than now to demand what they want or--as important--don't want.

One noticeable trend is a leaning towards handmade items and crafts which support local designers and artisans--Columbia Road and Cheshire Street are hotspots for this kind of thing. Yes there are a lot of these shops cropping up that purely sell "beautiful things" like Shelf (Map 91), Constructive Lives (Map 25), Of Cabbages And Kings (Map 64), and, (if it's a beauty of a decaying kind you're looking for) Viktor Wynd's Shop of Horrors (Map 87) to name a few (and we like them). But when it comes to fashion we also like to know that a little bit of love has been sprinkled into the making of an item. Special mention here must go to Amy Anderson of Comfort Station (Map 91) who produces the most thoughtful and whimsical pieces of jewellery and Vivien of Holloway (Map 74) who has built a real niche following but whose fabulous 1950s tailoring would make any gal feel like a doll. Both have gorgeous, well-fitted, unique shop spaces too. For blokes, Folk (Map 5) are renowned for their limited collections, particularly shoes which are hand-stitched (hence the price tag).

Part of this trend is Pop-Up Shops which are installed for a few months at a time sometimes displaying the work of a single designer/company or else a co-operative of independent designers. Not only is this a thrifty way of setting up shop in these uncertain times, it also provides a showcase for new young things so always worth a look out, these tend to appear around Carnaby Street and Spitalfields especially in the summer.

The Big Boys
When it comes to department stores, Selfridges (Map 2) is without a doubt the daddy--arguably, (and the emphasis is on that word depending on your budget) you can just get everything you need from here. Harvey Nics (Map 37) and Harrods (Map 37) are very much for ladies
who lunch, and the Knightsbridge set use them like corner shops--that's not to say they don't have their uses. For a more personal touch, Fenwick (Map 2) and Liberty (Map 10) are wonderful British institutions which take you far from the madding crowd. If all these close-quarters encounters get up your nose head to Whiteleys (Map 30) or the Behemoth that is Westfield Shopping Centre (Map 33).

Haute et High Street
For flexing that plastic, Bond Street has always been the place to spend but Bruton Street, which branches off the main drag, is setting quite a precedent with Matthew Williamson (Map 9), Stella McCartney (Map 9) and Diane Von Furstenburg (Map 9) all in residence. Always one to mix things up and throw us off track, Marc Jacobs' (Map 9) London store is to be found on Mount Street--check out the Marc for Marc Jacobs range for affordable designer garb--by which we mean £3 and upwards. Yes, really. If you want to feel like Alice down the rabbit hole, make a trip to Dover Street Market (Map 9), owned by Rei Kawakubo of Comme Des Garçons--a real experience even if you’re not buying. For those of us in the real world, Topshop (Map 3) is the grand kahuna of high street shopping--seventh heaven on three floors for fashionistas. For super-slick, sharp ready-to-wear you can't beat Spanish stores, Zara (Map 2) and Mango (Map 3) who both do high street with an edge and turnover is pretty quick to ensure their stock remains covetable. New contenders for higher end high-street include Cos (Map 10) and Hoss Intropia (Map 10), and let's not forget our Stateside cousins who have sent ripples of excitement through the fash pack by opening flagship stores of Anthropologie, Banana Republic, and Abercrombie & Fitch all (Map 10) in the big smoke. There are also little shopping oases to be found in the capital. St Christopher's Place is hidden behind the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street and houses cool European brands like Marimekko (Map 2) and Noa Noa (Map 2) alongside more familiar fare. Kingly Court (behind Carnaby Street--itself a great shopping spot for trend-led labels) has some nice boutiques in The Black Pearl (Map 10) and Twinkled (Map 10). The area around Seven Dials in Covent Garden which includes Neal’s Yard is eclectic with high-end boutiques like Orla Kiely (Map 13) and Miss Lala's Boudoir (Map 13) on Monmouth and skatewear at Slam City Skates (Map 13) and Superdry (Map 13) on Earlham. Edgy fashion abounds in Hoxton: head to Good Hood (Map 84) to start your shopping crawl or No One (Map 91) where they've got everything we want before we even know we want it.

Back To The Future
Man, we invented vintage. Us lovers of the mothball have been burrowing through rags in the far reaches of the city for decades. Some of the best-known, best-loved shops include Rellik (Map 25) in Portobello, Annie's (Map 80) in Islington (a favourite of La Moss), and Beyond Retro (Map 91) and Absolute Vintage (Map 91) in Shoreditch (famous hunting ground for stylists). If you want to hear what the young, stylish and clueless get up to head to Rokit (Map 71) and eavesdrop on the staff's mindnumbing conversations. For genuine thrift, the turnover of goods in our charity shops is mind-boggling. Oxfam Dalston (Map 86) is renowned for being a good rummage: it's hit and miss but then that's the nature of the thrifting beast. Most hardy shoppers will happily tread the city twice over for good charity shop finds but if you want some certainty of finding designer threads you can't beat the British Red Cross in both Victoria (Map 19) and Chelsea (Map 45) where you will discover the likes of Ralph Lauren, Armani and pairs of Manolos amongst the usual flotsam and jetsam. The Notting Hill Housing Trust (Map 35) is also a reliable source of local celebrities' cast-offs from like, yesterday. For all you true vintage fashion fiends who want to mingle with like-minded souls and find genuine vintage togs (i.e. pre-1980s) the Frock Me! Vintage Fashion Fair (Map 45) and Anita's Vintage Fashion Fair (Map 135) are unequalled for choice and variety. Wake up and smell the mould.

Keep On Running, Cycling, Skating etc.

Lillywhite's (Map 10) is the obvious place to go for cheap sportswear--it has earned a bit of a bargain basement tag where once it was prestigious (the Lillywhites were instrumental in the game of cricket during the 19th century) but it doesn’t stop the shoppers pouring in, and tourists buying their favourite London team football shirts. Sweatshop (Map 17) is a chain of stores but the original Teddington shop is frequented by world-class athletes as well as Sunday joggers. The staff really know their stuff (why is this so rare!?). An equally good indie chain is Runners Need (Map 20). If it's sweatshop-made stuff you're after head to Niketown (Map 2), which is as scary as the name suggests. Though we're no Amsterdam, the economic shitstorm has inspired many Londoners to don skintight clothes and take to two wheels. Bobbin Bicycles (Map 5) in Clerkenwell embraces that fun with a range of beautiful vintage and special edition bikes. Their website proclaims "We're more like a boutique than a bikeshop,"--to keep over-heads down there is no store but an appointment only service at Bobbin’s workshop, giving a real personal touch. If you’re after a battered old charmer of a bike, Recycling (Map 112) does a fab job at selling second-hand wheels.  If you've had your designer bike nicked, head down to Brick Lane at the weekend and buy it off some dodgy geezer. Slam City Skates (Map 13) is the only dedicated place for Southbank skaters to get their duds.

Home Sweet Home

John Lewis (Map 2) is a British standard (read: very sensible) and has been the store of choice for middle-class couples' wedding lists for decades. Their maxim is "never knowingly undersold", with fantastic staff (who all get a share of the profits), and MOR but well made stuff. Twentytwentyone (Map 80) is a designer's wet dream selling originals as well as new items. So impressive is their collection that they often lend out furniture to film companies who want the authentic look of an era on set. The wonderfully named Timorous Beasties (Map 6) make wickedly amusing wallpapers--their most famous being a toile de jouy design for modern days (spot the alcopop-drinking chavs and the Gherkin in the background). For a no-nonsense approach to home furnishing visit the grimey Second Time Around (Map 87). Labour and Wait (Map 91) does the retro home stuff better than most. If you want personable, "Where can I find one of these?" type of service try Russell's Hardware & DIY (Map 151) in Tooting or KTS The Corner (Map 86) in Dalston.

Electricity For You And Me
Traditionally, Tottenham Court Road is the hideout for the anally retentive Hi-Fi nut and the nerdoid pirate radio enthusiast a-like. The area positively thrums with electricity and in all cases it’s best to shop around, play prices against each other and barter until you get the lowest price--often cash payment will get you well below the RRP. Computer Exchange (Map 3) is the one-stop shop for gaming, DVDs, computing and phones, which--as the name suggests--will part-exchange and knock money off for cash transactions. For audiovisual, Richer Sounds (Map 106) is a trusted chain, and if we're talking electronics in the purist sense, Maplin (Map 3) is geek central. Whether you'll get anyone who knows what they're taking about is another matter. Photography enthusiasts should check out the London Camera Exchange (Map 24) for old-school SLRs and digital cameras. They specialise in Pentax, Nikon and of course, Leica.

Food Glorious Food

We're a piggish race, us Londoners. Whether it's forcing down jellied eels or overpriced mushroom sandwiches down Broadway Market (Map 89), our bellies is never empty, guvna. While we're at it, we'll have an ostrich burger and some raclette down Borough Market (Map 106). We have New York (and in particular, the Magnolia Bakery) to thank for the invasion of cupcake stores but the original and best is the Hummingbird Bakery (Map 29) which makes Red Velvet cupcakes that taste like little pieces of baked orgasm. Just try and restrain yourself from licking the last morsels of frosting from the paper. Nostalgia for old style sweetie shops can be bought at Mrs. Kibble's Olde Sweet Shop (Map 10) whether your fetish is for cola cubes, sherbet flying saucers or Wham bars. Numerous Italian delis can be found around the city selling cured meats, buffalo mozzarella, biscotti and everything else that Mama used to make--I Camisa & Son (Map 11) is small but crammed full of delicacies, while Spiazzo (Map 53) is bigger and sparklier. Organic freaks can bypass the rather average Whole Foods chain and head to local independent places like The Grocery (Map 91) or Mother Earth (Map 75). For the cheapest and best coffee-to-go in Soho try the Algerian Coffee Stores. Looking for Unicum? Look no further than Gerry’s Spirits Shop (Map 11)  where you can find obscure liquors like Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka and good quality Cachaça.

Art And Craft Supplies
Crafty types and closet Van Goghs can pick up supplies at Cass Art (Map 80) three-storey flagship store in Islington. There's everything here for aspiring Manga cartoonists and weekend watercolourists alike, and lots of fun bits and pieces for school holiday/rainy day projects in the basement. Much of the high quality stock can be found at cut-price throughout the year--stock up on Moleskine note and sketchbooks which are frequently marked down. The London Graphic Centre (Map 13) has more design-led stock as well as fine art material attracting architects and graphic designers. Known for its greeting cards and stationary, Paperchase (Map 3) on Tottenham Court Road also has--true to its name--an astonishing array of handmade papers on its top floor--from flocked designs to fibrous papers made with dried flowers. You've got to love Blade Rubber (Map 4) just for its name, and for keeping sketches, photos, and memories intact. Wyvern Bindery (Map 6) is one of few of its kind to offer book-making services.

Axes, Saxes, Drums, Strums...
Traditionally, Tin Pan Alley (real name: Denmark Street) has always been the hub of musical creativity in the city. Back in the day when rents were affordable, a community grew up around this little side street which went on to see Jimi Hendrix and The Beatles record in the basements, and a young Elton John sitting on the rooftops penning "Your Song". Nowadays you may spot Jack White trying out a Digitech Whammy or Jonny Greenwood looking for some new toy to replace his Marshall Shred Master. If we had to choose a couple, we’d bug Macaris for cheapness and Wumjos (Map 12) for friendliness. There are plenty of independent music stores to be found in London’s boroughs, and often they are specialists, happy to have a natter about what exactly it is that you’re looking for and what the weather's like. Try Top Wind (Map 104) for all your flute needs, Duke of Uke (Map 91) for banjo and ukulele-lovers, though the staff are a little arsey, and Phil Parker (Map 1) for all you jazz cats needing a hand with your brass. For the medieval troubadour in your life, Hobgoblin (Map 3) has its own luthier who makes lutes. Try Ray Man (Map 71) in Camden for unusual ethnic instruments and drone boxes. For the largest collection of sheet music in Europe, Chappel of Bond Street (Map 11) (now on Wardour Street but they’ve kept the name) is your destination. One thing though, will you instrument shop assistants please stop jamming while you’re talking to us?

Music Non Stop
The slow, painful death of the CD can be seen in almost every indie music store in London, and it coincides with the financial doom and gloom that has befallen Virgin Records, Zavvi and Sanctuary (thankfully we still have one branch of Fopp (Map 12) left). Bizarrely, the death march of the traditional record shop has become a moonwalk: more and more boutique record shops are springing up selling new and used wax. The Berwick Street vinyl epicenter may have been drained of late, but other parts of London have become haunts for us of haunched posture and good taste. Sister Ray (Map 11) is forever teetering on the edge, but Revival Records (Map 11) is the long gone Reckless Records' offspring. If you find yourself on the Essex Road, have a gander at Flashback (Map 83) and Haggle Vinyl (Map 83): you’re sure to find something to please and appeal in the former and appall in the latter. The Music & Video Exchange (Map 29, 71) in Notting Hill was way ahead of its time and has been the swapshop of choice for years, it’s still the king as far as we’re concerned. When south of the river, do as Camberwellians do and drop in at Rat Records (Map 121).  To guarantee a withering look from a record shop lifer go and discuss the use of naivety in Legowelt’s output at Phonica (Map 10) in Soho. Catch some indie shmucks at Pure Groove (Map 15) in Holloway, and many a muso's all-round fave, Sounds of the Universe (Map 11) is owned by the Soul Jazz label.

Antiques And Bric-A-Brac, Flea Markets And Stalls
There may have been a  time, dear reader, when Markets sold fleas. And Brics and bracs. Perhaps we used to know what these elusive words meant. Frankly, we numbskulls at NFT don't care about etymology unless it’s second hand and collectable. First stop on many shoppers" lists--both serious collectors and weekend browsers--are Alfie's Antique Market (Map 76) and Gray's Antique Market (Map 2). Here you’ll find art, antiques, jewellery, vintage clothing and rare books all housed under one roof.

Once the centre of the Britpop phenomenon in the '90s and a thriving mini-metropolis for vintage and antique stalls, Camden is going through something of an identity crisis with parts of the old Stables market and the Arches being shut down and redevelopment looming: what used to be a hotchpotch high street full of character is fast becoming an identikit of any other shopping street in England. Much of the area was damaged by a fire in 2009, which thankfully gutted the Hawley Arms but unfortunately not all the tat that has come to be sold in abundance round here. Proud Gallery (Map 71) has taken over the listed Horse Hospital building and packs of German and French kids on school trips puzzlingly rifle through the emo and goth gear that overfloweth. There is some gold to be found though in shops like Episode (Map 71) and Rokit (Map 71), and Aldo Liquidation (Map 71) is good for a bargain (or practising your rugby tackle). Certainly the place still has atmosphere.

Well-known to scavengers, Camden Passage (Map 80) in Angel, rather confusingly,  is a welcome retreat from the mallrat-filled N1 centre across the road in Islington. The Mall and also Pierrepoint Arcade (tucked away behind the passage) offer a cornucopia of clothing, jewelry, military paraphernalia, homewares, prints, and a host of other bits and bobs. On Saturdays, market stalls set up in the street and surprises like original Givenchy earrings from 1978 (4 quid!) can be salvaged from amongst the knick-knacks. This is another brilliant little vintage bazaar continually threatened by chains and redevelopment. Go protest by buying any old crap.

Brick Lane (Map 91) also opens up on Sunday and in the summer there is a real carnival feel with fruit and veg, plumbing and DIY bits and pieces, electricals, toilet ries, furniture (dentist’s chair anyone?), clothes, DVDs lining the lane and spiling into Sclater Street. Watch your bags and all the silly haircuts. All manner of weirdness can be observed from performance art to people seemingly emptying out the contents of their bedrooms onto tarpaulins and sheets looking for enthusiastic buyers. Who wants to buy Tron on video? Somebody does. Brick Lane also has the added advantage of having many a watering hole and curry house where you can stop and people-watch if it all makes you want to go all 'Falling Down' on their asses. If that's not your thing, (Up)Market is held in the Truman Brewery (Map 91) every Sunday and showcases new designers as well as housing some vinyl, vintage and gourmet street food. It's got to be said that all this is superior to the now sanitized Spitalfields Market (Map 91).

Roman Road Market (Map 94) is proper gorblimey, lor' love a duck cockerney territory and there's lots to be had from fruit and veg, bed linen, factory seconds and branded clothing with the labels cut out. If Lady Luck is stroking your inner thigh you get some great bargains at Deptford Market (Map 119).

Though certainly not as bountiful in treasure as the car boot sales of other parts of the country, London does have some. The best in Zone 2 is definitely the Battersea Car Boot Sale (Map 141), a sprawling mess that kicks of around midday in a godsend to all us alcoholics and narcoleptics.



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Monday, August 15, 2011

Posted By:  Justine Forrest
Photo:  Justine Forrest

Ora Salon
A girl's relationship with her hairdresser is one of the most important in her life, and the quest to find a good one can be harder than finding a good man. I've suffered some bad haircuts and dreadful dyes over the years, and had the disappointment of finding a good hairdresser only for them to disappear on me. But after over a decade of looking, my search final ended a few years ago when I found the Ora Salon. Ora and its stylists are trendy without being intimidating. The stylists clearly know and love their work, but they always listen to you--you aren't going to come out of here with an asymetrical cut that takes hours to maintain (unless that is what you want, of course). The salon is bright white, made less stark by various plants and comfy seats. Whilst most salons play relentless dance music regardless what time of day, the soundtrack at Ora could be a mix of The Smiths, Nouvelle Vague, New Orleans jazz or something you've never heard before, but want to hear more of. Prices vary depending on the level of experience of the stylist, but being able to get a decent cut in Covent Garden for around £50 is pretty reasonable.



Monday, June 27, 2011

Posted By:  Claire Storrow
Photo:  Claire Storrow

Freggo
A few weeks ago I was invited to a press night at the Menier Gallery for Freggo ice cream. Freggo is a cafe-gelateria run by the folk who own Gaucho. Their USP in a sea of gelaterias that have opened in the capital these past few years is that they are Argentinian, hence the flavours Malbec and Berries and Dulce de Leche. The event at the Menier was called Taste based upon some technical wizardry which apparently lets you "see what your tastebuds saw". Basically, I ate some free ice cream then rocked up to a computer where I rated factors such as "creaminess" and "tartness" out of 100. Once I'd completed all sections, the computer did some crunching and produced a visual which morphed and undulated before my eyes. It was kind of cool--but not as cool as free ice cream: "Hiya, yes, me again! Can I try the Banana Split again?" (which incidentally is the stand out flavour). If you happen to be on Regent Street duck in to Swallow Street and give Freggo a try but Scoop in Covent Garden is still serves the best gelato in London.




Thursday, January 27, 2011

Posted By:  mike whyte
Photo:  mike whyte

Gerry's
Having passed this shop literally thousands of times on my way through Soho, it took till Christmas to actually increase my curiosity enough to step over the threshold. The reason? Christmas shopping for my family. Why here? Well, good question--try minus temperatures and the very British habit of joining a queue... I was certainly glad I did, seeing the vast array of alcohol of all strengths, colours, bottle shapes, logos and reputations led me to believe I had just entered an adults version of a candy store. I'm not condoning alcoholism here, as this isn't cheap booze, but for connoisseurs it really is a treasure trove. The vast array in the window doesn't even begin to give you an idea of what is inside--and the helpful staff really know their stuff, so you are sure to find what you need. I left the shop, if you're interested, with a rather nice bottle of rum--so Xmas went smoothly for me, but should you want a gift for family member or loved ones, don't just think of the Winter season, as these tipples, sourced from around the globe, will probably put you in someone's good books any time of the year.



Thursday, July 01, 2010

Posted By:  Claire Storrow
Photo:  Claire Storrow

Oliver Bonas
Oliver Bonas is my friend. Whoever he is. Recently I met a girlfriend having forgotten her birthday during the previous week. I needed something for her and I needed it fast--I needed something that did not scream "I just picked up the first thing I saw".  Luckily for me Oliver Bonas is a godsend for these kinds of moments. I guarantee (boys take note) you could buy practically anything in here and your girlfriend/aunt/sister/mum/niece/best friend/cousin/wife/daughter would be chuffed to bits. I chose a red and white leather purse with a cherry motif knowing that said girlfriend is a sucker for anything with cherries on it. Girlfriend calls--I'm ten minutes late--"Where are you?" I'll be five minutes I say. The cashier asks if I want gift wrap "Yes, all that please." I rush out of St Pancras to see girlfriend standing urbanely with her own bag from Oliver Bonas (she too had forgotten my birthday some months ago). She smiles, clocking my bag, "Where’ve you been?!" she asks knowingly. "Where’ve you been?!" I respond. Cue fits of giggles and gasps of delight while unwrapping the freshly wrapped gifts. "Oh my God! I so wanted this!" And I know she really did.



Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Posted By:  Claire Storrow
Photo:  Claire Storrow

Viktor Wynd's Shop of Horrors
In October 2009 there were strange goings-on at 11 Mare Street. Deliveries of body parts, jars containing foetuses, stuffed animals and other curiosities were being deposited at the front door at an alarming rate. Indeed this was the opening of Viktor Wynd's Shop of Horrors, a destination that has attracted attention from the London news, fashion bible ELLE, and the esteemed New York Times. Three years in the making, this lovingly created museum of the macabre seemed like a shaky venture back  then--a whim of the owner, gimmicky even, but the shop-cum-gallery has displayed the work of respected artists and welcomed many a visitor both celebrated and pedestrian. The interior was even used as the set for a video shoot recently, and continues to lure passer-bys with its unusual shop frontage located in the strange No Man's Land of Cambridge Heath. It is amusing to hear that locals find it a little unnerving--especially the taxidermy--in a part of London where once domestic cats were skinned alive for their pelts. If you happen to catch Wynd in his shop he will no doubt beguile you with tales of his finds.

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