Philly has the kind of restaurant-to-person ratio we could only dream about for teacher-to-student in our public schools—the kind that allows us to sample new flavors in new seating scenarios as often as we please. And we’re a lot smarter for it. From our slew of exposed brick BYOBs, our pizza meccas and cheesesteak musts, to a whole galaxy of Starr’s, there isn’t one good reason to eat where you pay the rent.
Italian
Man, where to begin? The mega-hyped Vetri (Map 3) lives up to its reputation and has prices to match. La Viola (Map 2), right across the street from the always mega-busy Monk’s (Map 2), is a fine example of opportunism, but it also happens to be awfully good. For purists, Villa di Roma (Map 8) provides absolutely kick-ass pasta dishes in an atmosphere reminiscent of the house in All in the Family. L’Angolo (Map 9) is perhaps the best pure Italian joint in the city, and their desserts are bliss. Melograno (Map 1), the always buzzing BYOB, provides a hip milieu some of us might require. BYOB Modo Mio (Map 19) gets our vote for date night though—the menu turista gets you four courses for $33, plus the chance to sight local celebrities like Georges Perrier—yeah, the guy who opened Philly’s top French restaurant, Le Bec-Fin (Map 2).
Asian
Besides the people getting on the bus to New York, everybody else is in Chinatown for the food, and with excellent reason. Vietnam (Map 3) is the unconquerable champion here—and its West Philly sister site, the Vietnam Café (814 S 47th St) is pretty wonderful as well.
Moving on from Vietnam (as if that were possible), other Chinatown greats include the hipster-discovered Rangoon (Map 3), serving Burmese food with unflinching quality, not to mention oomph—try the calamari salad. Lee How Fook (Map 3)—which, right next to Vietnam, is a wonderful Plan B if Plan A has a two-hour wait—has a sophisticated Chinese menu and the dishes come large enough to share.
Our sushi awards go to Hikari (Map 19) and Vic Sushi Bar (Map 1)—both small, relatively inexpensive, and stocked with beautifully fresh fish. If we catch you at nearby Mizu (Map 1) instead of at Vic…well, we’d make a threat to you, but your dissatisfaction with your meal will probably be punishment enough.
If you’re looking for upscale, Susanna Foo (Map 2) rules on restaurant row, mixing French into the Chinese with class. And foodies flock to Morimoto (Map 3), for reasons having to do with lobster.
Pizza
We don’t want no trouble, we just want to share some of our favorite slices. Perhaps the most famous spot in Philly is out in Port Richmond, Tacconelli’s (Map 20), which is so popular, they require you to reserve your dough in advance. Not good at planning in advance? Grab a huge slice from Lazaro’s (Map 7). Marra’s (Map 10) is a South Philly legend, and you can’t get that kind of exalted status unless you know how to twirl some dough. Lorenzo’s (Map 8) has the Italian Market wrapped around its finger, and Lorenzo and Son (Map 8) has good reason for attracting the South Street crowd. Also, we give it up to Mama Palma’s (Map 1) for having the most variety—while not for purists, try the Peking Duck pizza.
Breakfast
For the best breakfasts in Philly, you have no choice but to buck up and wait—and the four places that’ll make you wait the longest, Sam’s Morning Glory Diner (Map 7), Sabrina’s Café (Maps 8, 17), and Honey’s Sit ‘n’ Eat (Map 19) are where you should plant yourself along with the rest of us. At Morning Glory, the bright, homey feel gives way to creations no one’s willing to execute at home—packed pancakes, exquisite frittatas. Sabrina’s delivers similarly with a possible advantage of being in the vibrant Italian Market—or the advantage of a slightly shorter wait if you go to the Callowhill location. The newest of the group, Café Estelle, is weirdly placed in a fancy apartment building, but has breakfasts that sing. Honey’s, meanwhile, combines Southern comfort food with Jewish fare for a result that’ll leave you longing for latkes days after you’ve left. For a quieter, cheaper morning, Ida Mae’s (Map 20) still has the right idea.
Luxe
Le Bec-Fin (Map 2) remains Philly’s most prominent fine dining experience and will occasionally offer deals like two dinners for $50. Lacroix (Map 2) provides yet another fine French dining experience. Guests (and gawkers) of the Four Seasons enjoy the all-encompassing luxury of Fountain (Map 2). The ubiquitous Stephen Starr’s ritzy meat establishment Barclay Prime (Map 2) out-steaks some of the more stern (GOP Incorporated) competition. Vegans, don’t worry, there’s fanciness a-plenty for you too at Horizons (Map 8). Oh, and despite the name, avoid Swanky Bubbles (Map 4)—it’s a lot of attitude and bathroom attendants without good food to match.
BYOB
One of Philly’s most engaging traditions is its affinity for the inexpensive fine dining experience. Stop by a good wine store (say, in Jersey) and head on over to one of these beauties. Lolita (Map 3) shoots to the top of our list, with its sultry fusion fare—meat and tofu cooked to smoldering perfection—terribly sexy (not to mention kind) waitstaff, and house-made margarita mixes, provided you bring the tequila (which we suggest you do) Old City’s Chloe (Map 4) continues to be a perennial favorite amongst foodies and those trying to dodge Old City while in Old City. South Philly’s tiny Little Fish (Map 8) has received many accolades and has an epic Sunday-night tasting menu. Audrey Claire (Map 1) is a professed favorite of the Rittenhouse crowd. Finally, what would life be like without Dmitri’s (Map 8) loving Mediterra-nean fare? We shudder to think.
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Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Posted By:
Krista Apple
Photo:
Krista Apple
Da Vinci Ristorante
Yes. Hard to believe. A hearty Italian restaurant in the depths of South Philly. But at Da Vinci Ristorante, the spirit and flavor of Passyunk mingle with a smooth elegance more often found in Rittenhouse Square. Chef and owner Francesco Parmisciano grew up near Salerno, and his restaurant's palette manifests that Southern Italian heritage in deliciously complex combinations; so if it's traditional marinara "gravy" you're after, you may have come to the wrong place. Pasta and meat entrées alike balance delicate flavors such as white wines, capers, shallots, sun-dried tomatoes and gorgonzola and ricotta cheeses. If making a reservation, be sure they seat you downstairs (the upstairs seating is better for large parties, but lacks in ambiance) or, in good weather, sit in the spacious and mosaic-studded back patio. Stay for dessert and they'll treat you to a shot of chocolate-cello (a sweet, thick variation on traditional limoncello liquer).
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Monday, July 05, 2010
Posted By:
Krista Apple
Photo:
Krista Apple
Old City Cheese Shop
The name's a misnomer. Not that they don't sell cheese--they do: a small but mighty selection of French, Italian and American cheese from Gouda to good Pecorino. But there's ever so much more. Best loved by this reviewer for their lunch special, you can pick up a sandwich and soup for $7 on weekdays. (Sandwiches are pre-made, and might on any given day include a choice of prosciutto & provolone, mozzarella caprese, or a ham & cheese croissant. On weekends, sidle in for the best-kept brunch secret in the city: a tiny outdoor garden, snug enough for four tables and a small trickling corner fountain, await your feasting pleasure. The prix fixe menu selections are accompanied by coffee or tea, freshly squeezed orange juice, and a fresh baked muffin. It's the best way, outside of a Eurorail pass, to escape your urban drudgery. In the end, maybe they're right. "Old City Cheese and Brunch and Sandwich Shop" might be a propos...but it just doesn't have the same ring.
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Friday, June 25, 2010
Posted By:
Krista Apple
Photo:
Krista Apple
Carman's Country Kitchen
Carman's may very well embody the spirit of South Philly: it's rough and saucy, made to order, and straight from the heart. There's no messing around here at this homespun brunch storefront; sitting at the counter or at one of a few snug tables, you'll be served with mismatched silverware and mugs likely filched from your great aunt’s cupboard. The menu, hand-written on the wall, announces a small selection of seasonally inspired entrees that change weekly. You'll always have your choice between a sweet pancake, fruity French toast, seasonal omelette, or a special meat, fish or sausage served with eggs and toast. Sit at the far back table and you'll catch Carman hard at work in her tiny kitchen; she may even ask you how you enjoyed your meal as she fries up another omelette. In warm weather, you and your party of 6-8 can sit at the "chef’s table," a picnic table nestled in the bed of a curbside pickup truck. (Call ahead; it's available by reservation only.) The tables may be few, and the entrees fewer; but Carman proves that quality, not quantity, wins the day.
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Thursday, June 17, 2010
Posted By:
Sara Nye
Photo:
Sara Nye
Green Eggs Cafe
While eating breakfast at Green Eggs, one of the only other physical tasks I can accomplish is heaving great sighs of contentment. Not only because the French toast I order is perfectly portioned and manages to be both light AND rich, but also due to the ambiance here, a newly remodeled set of rooms that is full of warm dark woods, intricate ceilings, and images of the natural world. Each table even has a plant centerpiece. The cafe itself seems to be breathing deeply, so what choice do I really have to do otherwise? Get this: buying a glass of water for $1 helps conserve the planet's water ways. Now I'm wholly convinced this place is designed to satisfy the greener, more-in-touch-with-nature person trying to fight his or her way out of us all. While sating us silly, that is. A note on this French toast: it's brioche stuffed with fresh berries and ricotta and topped with more berries, Chantilly cream, and blueberry sauce. Next time I'm diving into the pancakes. A full stack is $6.50, a short $4.50. And I can get poached pears, vanilla ice cream, and lavender honey on them. For no. Extra. Charge.
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Monday, June 14, 2010
Posted By:
Krista Apple
Photo:
Krista Apple
Isgro Pastries
Of South Philly's great bakeries-- Termini Brothers, Varallo Brothers, Cosmi's--Isgro is one of the best known, not only because of their delectable sweets but because of their proximity to the oft-traversed Italian Market and (inimitable) Sabrina's Cafe. Isgro's delivers all that one dreams of in a traditional Italian bakery and sweet shop: pignoli, biscotti and sfogliatella; tortes, tarts and eclairs; and--of course--cannoli (the store's website, lest we wonder, is " bestcannoli.com"). What's more, you don't even have to walk into the store to get a little dash of bakery bliss; thanks to the fans cooling the basement ovens, the bakery's singular aroma wafts up and down Christian street, a siren song calling out to the deepest caverns of your olfactory senses. What's the use in resisting? The "best" ricotta cheese cannoli in South Philly awaits.
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