Au Doux Raisin
You seek a relaxed, auberge-like vibe with charming locals singing along to the French chansons the young proprietor's sound system is playing? You got it, along with seven house gratins (the auvergnat, with potatoes, onions, artisinal ham, and blue and comté cheeses, is swoon-worthy), a 16-euro dinner menu, and cheap pitchers of heavenly house wine (of course -- you're in France, where cheap doesn't = gag reflex). The generous serving of duck will be cooked perfectly, the saucisson will be buttery (how's that possible?) and rich, and you'll lick the crème brûlée dish. All this while you take in a wildly decorated bar (like The Smiths collaborated with Tim Gunn in a mood) and random artwork throughout -- but never fear, the ambience is 100% authentic. The friendly locals having a pint or glass at the barrels outside will smile as you enter -- one of them's probably the chef, and another the young owner. Great neighborhood with a don't-you-dare-miss joint, where every dish's a winner.