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Trattoria Pulcinella is like one of the better, tinier restaurants you’d find in the North End, only tinier and better…er. The threshold of this place is like a wormhole to Italy, seriously. Right away you’re at home in the warm, golden glow of the place. Then comes the food, which is equally likely to be brought to you by the owner as the waiter. The salads actually made me swoon a little bit—many contain the freshest ever mozzarella from Italy and olive oil that you can tell is the best, even if you’re not prone to knowing such things. After that you’ll be willing to sample pretty much anything on the menu—much of which is genuinely Italian and hence highly unrecognizable. One might find oneself saying, “Hells, yes, bring me the gnocchi with ox tail ragu!” and savoring every bite. Wild boar, penne with gorgonzola and marscapone, lasagna with string beans and heavy cream: these dudes know what they’re doing. If you’re looking to skip the schlep to the North End, this is your spot. Just be sure to make reservations. The place is hidden, but everyone seems to know about it anyway.
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