Though New York has a top-notch Chinatown with an array of Asian cuisines, you can still run into the same old Americanized food, bearing too much sugar in impossibly thick sauces. For this reason, my favorite spot in all of Chinatown is the Malaysian restaurant Jaya, plus they have a terrific neon sign for the bathroom. But regarding the food, it’s spicy, sweet, tropical, fresh, and just a bit different. I recommend the nasi lemak (curry chicken with rice, cucumber, peanuts, egg, and a crisply pickled sesame salad), but I haven’t had a bad dish yet, and the prices make it a real bargain. Runners up include the watercress and beef rendang.