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San Francisco Archived Features |
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No Collared Shirt Required: Golf for the Anti-Golfer
Dan Bollwinkel
4/30/2008
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It has been said that to repeat a behavior one knows to be
wrong or unproductive while having full knowledge that said behavior is wrong
or unproductive is the definition of insanity. My obsession with the game of
golf--on and off the course--fits this description to a tee. I know full well that golf courses are the
most ridiculous waste of natural resources on the planet and that the game has
a steeped history in white, male upper-class domination and exclusivity, but
unfortunately I started playing golf before college, and as anyone who
plays the game will tell you, once you hit that first good ball, you’re hooked.
Seriously, it’s like heroin, and week after week we find ourselves lying to
respected colleagues, friends and spouses to sneak away and brave the elements
in search of mythical golfing perfection
only to fail the vast majority of the time. See: the average golf swing and the
above definition of insanity. The esteemed comedian and admitted golfer Lewis
Black perhaps puts it best: “Golf is a game for people who don’t hate themselves enough in their
daily lives.”
But all that guilt and insanity aside, it must be said that
to play golf here in the foggy cultural enclave of the Bay Area can be a
diverse, anti-elitist, and ecologically fascinating experience. My cohort and I
choose to play courses that are, in our estimation, the kinds of places where CEO’s and doctors and
lawyers would rather not set foot. Far from the lavishly maintained fairways and
greens of the country clubs and the exclusive roster of historic public courses
the greater Bay Area has to offer, these tracks are for working men, women and
children: starving students and eccentrics and people who don’t own collared
shirts. These courses are bastions of free expression: where one can swagger
freely with an open beer, where dozens of dollars and quarters and owed drinks
change hands in a gloriously complicated underground economy of wagering; where
one can shout obscenities at will and not fear being committed, where man and
beast (mostly squirrels) exist side by side in perfect harmony. And judging by
the condition some of these courses are typically in, I assure the reader that there
are minimal resources being expended to maintain them.
In no particular order, here are my top five Bay Area golf courses
where you don’t need a tee time, a collared shirt, or a platinum credit card to
have a decent time whacking around the old pill.
Gleneagles Golf Club, South
San Francisco:
Okay, so I said in no particular order but that goes
for the other four courses. Gleneagles is perhaps the most difficult, most fun,
and most eccentric golf course in the country. The great Lee Trevino, himself a
Bay Area native, once called it the hardest 9 holes in the world. Regardless,
any course where you pay for your round at the bar has got to be fun, and
Gleneagles lives up to its reputation. It is actually just nine holes, but with
two sets of staggered tees (the front nine and the back nine) Gleneagles gets
away with being considered an 18-hole course. Carved through ancient Cypress trees and tilting perpetually toward the Cow Palace, Gleneagles is drenched with an equal measure of marine
layer, wind, and character. The fairways are more dirt than grass but the green
fees are dirt cheap ($15). Don’t expect anything fancy here: the yardage
markers are spray-painted on the trunks of trees and the greens are a bit worn-out
but they’re huge and multi-tiered. And the holes are long and tough: rumor has
it in more than one way. The fourth, fifth and sixth holes are separated from
the infamous Happy Valley Housing Projects by a short barbed wire fence, and
I’ve heard rumors for years of unfortunate souls going to look for their ball in
the left rough only to lose their wallet at gunpoint. One excited older
gentleman on another course once told me of an actual murder on the links at
Gleneagles, but I’ve never had an incident (I’m also 6’4”, 245 lbs. of pure
muscle and tattooed from head to toe) and I suspect urban legend is thicker
than the fog in the branches at an old and storied course like this one.
“The Chuck”: Chuck Corica
Golf Complex, Alameda:
“The Chuck” is near and dear to many, many Bay Area golfers.
In particular Alameda residents who
get to play this sprawling muni as much as they want Monday-Friday with a $115
monthly resident pass. If you live on the “island city,” or can manage to forge
an Alameda ID,
that’s the best golf deal on the planet. This grants you the privilege of
unlimited weekly access to the Earl Fry North 18-hole championship course, the
Jack Clark South 18-hole championship course, and the 9-hole MIF Albright par-3
course. If you can’t get a pass you can usually get out for under $30, even on
the weekend, and while they have plenty of carts they aren’t really necessary
as these tracks are all flat as a pancake and not terribly long.
The greatest thing about the Chuck is the group of longtime
regulars that frequent the courses: the friendliest, weirdest and most diverse
bunch of people I’ve ever met. I don’t know what some of these folks do for a
living but I swear some of them sleep in their cars in the parking lot and
subsist off the flora and fauna of the courses: they’re always there. But
they’ll play with anyone, they’re used to it; the courses’ proximity to the
Oakland International Airport makes it one of the most dropped-in courses in
the country. Don’t be surprised if you get invited to a card game after your
round. And whatever you do, don’t fall in a water hazard at the Chuck: they’re
filled with Bay run-off, mysterious and foul-smelling chemicals, and
prehistoric carp the size of Volkswagons; I’ve seen one eat a golf ball.
Lake
Chabot Municipal Golf
Course, Oakland:
After shutting down last winter for some much-needed
recovery and repair, this bizarre course tucked away in the southeastern hills
of Oakland is back and beautiful--rumor has it they finally got their liquor license renewed as well. But the
best part is that the rock-bottom prices in place when Chabot was a barren
wasteland a couple years ago have stayed the same. Oakland
residents play at a discount off the already minimal fees and the good folks in
the pro shop will simply tilt their head, wink, and ask if you’re an Oakland
resident: Just say yes.
As far as the course goes, it’s a bit like a roller coaster.
Just about every hole has major elevation change from tee to green so it’s a
hike if you want to walk it but it can be done. The entire course is basically
surrounded by woods on all sides as well, so the combination of untamed wilderness
and major slopes makes for the jerkiest cart driving experience around. I
personally have had several near-death experiences and I’ve witnessed plenty of
hair-raising and frankly hilarious mishaps involving cart, driver, clubs and
whatever beverages may have contributed to the incident flying through the air
in separate directions. When you see a sign that says “carts must remain on
path” they mean it at Chabot. They’ll find your body at the bottom of a canyon
weeks later if you make a wrong move.
Chabot is infamous for the 18th hole. It’s 668
yards from the tips and it’s basically a 45 degree drop-off straight down after
the first 225 yards or so (stay on the cart path!). Once you reach the bottom
of the hill, it’s another 100 yards up an even steeper vertical face to the
green. Obviously designed by someone with a serious drug problem, the 18th
at Chabot is a par 6, which is technically illegal by USGA standards, but this
is Oakland, and that’s how we roll.
In the summer time when the course is dry and the wind is just right, a perfect
drive will go all the way down the hill, so you can tell your friends you hit a
568 yard drive. Tiger’s never even done that.
Lincoln
Park, San Francisco:
Lincoln is a bit
of an exception to this particular group of courses. It can be a little pricey
and even busy, especially on the weekends (tourists) so I definitely recommend
a mid-week excursion. Lincoln is
what golfers like to call a ‘dog track’, however. That’s a course where the
fairways are basically kept in a similar condition to?you guessed it?a dog
track. Lincoln is a bit quirky and
short and really not all that interesting but it warrants mention for two
reasons.
First of all, off a certain hole on the front nine that
resides along a certain street you will find from time to time, a sketchy-looking
gentleman leaning up against a blue sedan watching you play the hole. Fear not,
he is friendly, and in the trunk of that blue sedan is cold beer and used top-of-the-line
golf balls sold at a considerable discount than that of the facilities. He will
also trade for other desirable things if you happen to be one of those golfers
for whom the greenest thing on the course is in your pocket, not on the ground.
Secondly, the 17th hole at Lincoln
is one of those holes every golfer should play at least once in his or her
life. It’s a relatively short par 3 but it runs along a seaside cliff
overlooking a spectacular view of the Golden Gate
Bridge and Baker
Beach. One could also theoretically
hit golf balls at passing ships from the tee box if they happened to be waiting
for the group ahead and had absolutely no sense of decency or environmental
awareness. I’m just sayin'.
Willow
Park Golf Course, Castro
Valley:
This is one of the best kept secrets in all of golf, in
my opinion. It’s short, somewhat muddy most of the year, and the greens
frequently suck, but there really isn’t a boring hole out here. It seems like all
18 have something bizarre and difficult going on that force players to make
shots. Willow Park is also just far enough out there that you feel like you’ve
left the Bay Area, but it’s close enough that you’re there in a half hour from
Oakland, or 45 minutes from the city and it’s easy to get to off of I-580. But
once you’re out there and you realize there’s no cell phone reception it’s as
if you’ve stepped back in time 40 years. The immense and typically empty
clubhouse and restaurant facilities help; they’re straight out of The
Shining.
The course itself is dense with willow and oak trees and it’s
designed around a central creek and surrounded on all sides by wooded canyon. I’ve
never felt more like I was in a wildlife preserve than on this golf course. Entire
families of deer munch on the fairways and wild turkeys frequently emerge from
the brush. All this for under $30 to walk, so if you aren’t even a golfer I’d
recommend this place for a hike.
I dream of a world where some day I will be able to
tell my more erudite acquaintances that I indeed play golf and they won’t look
at me as if I just admitted that I enjoy clubbing baby seals or that I like to
watch NASCAR. But until that day comes, at least I live here, where I can roam
the sacred and profane fairways of these particular courses in relative peace
and anonymity. But now that I’ve let the respective cats out of the bag this
must be said: respect the locals and their traditions, and for f---‘s sake,
hurry up and hit the ball: slow play is bad for everyone.
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