Although Bay Ridge has yet to be pegged as "The Next Williamsburg" (too few coffee shops and velvet blazers), it's come a long way from just "that neighborhood where they filmed Saturday Night Fever." While the extravagant mansions that line Colonial, Narrows, and Shore Road belie the traditionally middle class roots of the nabe, it's still one of the few havens left for cash-poor renters. Third Avenue's Restaurant Row is the pride of local foodies, and a vibrant shopping scene makes it unnecessary for Ridgeite’s to hop in their gas guzzling SUV's and souped-up Mustangs (but they do anyway). Add in a finally-realized Farmers Market and a profusion of greenery in the form of parks, promenades, and (gasp!) lawns, and it seems almost to good to be true...unless you're a Democrat. That's OK, as long as both sides can agree on where to get a good rigatoni bolognese and agree to disagree on most things political, it's pretty much utopia.
Bay Ridge is chock full of historical intrigue (did you know that Vikings discovered America? Check out the Leif Ericson Runestone if you don't believe us), to its important role in harbor defense during the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. The Barkaloo Cemetery (smallest cemetery in Brooklyn) is thought to hold the remains of many of these Revolutionary heroes, and real live warriors can still be found at Fort Hamilton, the only active military base in NYC. Maybe you'll even spot a soldier at St. John's Episcopal Church, originally established to serve the increasing number of Episcopalians on the base. Known as the "Church of the Generals," St. John's has been a house of worship for officers from every conflict since the Mexican War, counting Generals Robert E. Lee and Thomas J. (Stonewall) Jackson as past devotees.
So what’s in a name? Turns out, a lot. After discarding the moniker "Yellow Hook," (to avoid any plague-like connotations), the nabe was newly christened after its proximity to New York Bay, and the literal "ridge" in the land left over from the last Ice Age. Prime water views attracted the wealthy, and their extravagant taste in real estate. Notable examples still standing today are Fontbonne Hall, former residence of actress Lillian Russell, The Gingerbread House, an impressive example of Arts and Crafts architecture (and an occasional resort getaway for Santa’s elves), and the James F Farrell House, which has been at 125 95th Street since the early twentieth century. Legend has it the house was turned, so that its "widow's walk" (a balcony that overlooks the sea so women could watch for their husbands' ships), would no longer face The Narrows.
Water's been playing a key role in the area ever since, from the 69th Street Pier/9/11 Shore Memorial Rd and Bay Ridge Avenue, former ferry pick-up site and key recreation spot for sports fisherman, to the imposing Verrazano Narrows Bridge. Completed in 1964, this once-controversial structure was intended to ease transport between Brooklyn and Staten Island (now was that really necessary?), and held the title for the world's longest suspension bridge for nearly a quarter century. Views of it from various spots around Bay Ridge are stunning. So much for controversy.
Nightlife Afternoon sports bars that cater to late- night karaoke lovers abound (Salty Dog, Bean Post, Lonestar), as do pick-up spots for the heavily muscled and spray tanned (Trace), yet the neighborhood is finally spreading its wings. Tat 2 Lounge offers an acoustic open-mic on Thursday evenings, while Aloha Grinds serves as a chilled out respite for the alcohol free...complete with board games and Wi-Fi.
Restaurants Middle Eastern powerhouse Tanoreen has become a destination stop for visitors, but it’s hardly the only place worth braving the R train for. Try Tuscany Grill for Italian, La Maison Du Couscous for Moroccan, or Nouvelle for Japanese. Petit Oven has drawn raves for their market-driven fare, and their 3-course, $25 prix fixe on Wednesdays can't be beat.
Shopping
Brand-name stores reign supreme on 86th Street (Century 21, The Gap, etc), but there are plenty of opportunities to support small business
on Third and Fifth avenues. HOM is a neighborhood original, peddling
home accents and high tea, while Frank and Eddie’s Meat Market provides
a touch of old school in a modern age. Watch out for elbows, the local
elderly are serious about their prosciutto and ham cappy!
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On Our Radar:
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Friday, July 31, 2009
Posted By:
Jennifer Blevins
Photo:
Jennifer Blevins
Tanoreen
Yes, Bay Ridge is far away. Trust me, I know. I live there. I want to throw myself on the tracks of the 36th Street subway station in Brooklyn at least once a week during my miserable wait for the R train. But Bay Ridge is worth the trip, especially when you're talking about food...and especially when you're talking about Middle Eastern food. And the best of the best is Tanoreen. Rawia Bishara, the chef-owner, is masterful with eggplant, lamb, hummus...well, everything on her menu. And she visits each table with maternal concern, making sure your dining experience is everything you had dreamed it would be. I highly recommend the cauliflower salad--browned cauliflower buds topped with tahini sauce and pomegranate syrup, so perfect they seem to defy the laws of the natural world. It's BYOB (no corking fee) and Bay Ridge certainly has an abundance of liquor stores, so pick up a bottle of wine on your way. The atmosphere leaves a bit to be desired, but the prices and quality of food make it well worth the trip to Bay Ridge...if you can resist suicide at the 36th Street station.
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