Taste Without the Attitude

Recently on a trip back East, I did the unthinkable: I neglected to enjoy a hot sandwich of roasted meat on rye at one of its famed delis. Nope, not even at the site of Meg Ryan's famed orgasm. But in an attempt to right this wrong, I headed for Miller's East Coast Deli as soon as I returned home. For a fraction of a basic hot sandwich at New York's most iconic deli, I got a hefty turkey pastrami reuben thick enough to feed two, along with a side of potato salad and a pickle, but without the East Coast attitude. OK, so maybe it didn't completely make up for my previous oversight, but it was enough to suffice until my return. I promise I won't forget next time.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

TQ: Turkish Quesadilla

Wandering the TenderNob in search of a bite before meeting up with a friend, I wasn't exactly jonesing for Indian or Vietnamese, which make up about half of the restaurants in the vicinity. Running across A La Turca, I walked right in, knowing that a delicious meal would await. I went for the spinach and feta gozleme, kind of like a Turkish quesadilla, which came with green salad, a deliciously light departure from the usual kebabs and rice. I only wish I had been hungrier, with the menu featuring about 70 items, from hummus and baba ghanouj dips to meat pies and doner platters. But most likely I'll be back soon. Any place where you can watch Turkish music videos and order from an extensive selection of food and definitely merits multiple return visits.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Stealing & Drinking

I hated Sunday School, but it turns out Sunday is the best time to get yourself an education of a different distillation. For it is then that the high priests of Whiskey Thieves will bestow upon you the psalms of single malts, the gospels of grains, the holiness of its namesake hedonism. In the high holy hours of a recent afternoon, I alighted upon a bar stool beneath the amber glow of yonder altar to alcohol and confessed my grievous sin: my whiskey-knowledge ends at Makers. I was not chastised, nor condemned to fiery flames, unless that's what my esophagus craved from a straight scotch. My seraph of spirits openly inquired as to my tastes and my budget (he guessed correctly on both), and gave me a generous tasting of three very different, phenomenally delightful domestic whiskies. I chose among them, drank, and was saved: saved from ignorance, saved from shame, and saved from the cheap n' cheeky $5 PBR-Bushmills deal the kids swill down here on days of labor and lusty living. But on a day of rest, may I suggest elevating oneself to a higher purpose as disciple at Whiskey Thieves.

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Nightlife • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Counter Culture

After Chef Dennis Leary left Rubicon as its youngest chef de cuisine, he decided to go the opposite course to take total control of his culinary career. Canteen is his funky 22-seat hideaway, and Leary is its farmer's market shopper, prep cook and chef. When he's working the four burners with his sole sous chef, they're spicing and flipping and dodging in a fierce ballet of culinary kung fu. He'll often serve lesser-known items like lamb neck, squab, sea urchin or scud to perfection in a puckish, lending library-meets-Woolworth's counter decor. There are just 11 items on a daily menu (posted online) that denotes the number of weeks Canteen's been open, and the vanilla souffle is the only guaranteed staple. Advance phone reservations are a must to get one of the three seating times, and Tuesday nights are a solid bargain with the 3-course prix fixe. If the foodies who return here with religious frequency sit next to you, they will attest that Canteen is among the best dining experiences you'll find on the West Coast.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Fun With Tourists

You've probably had relatives from Ohio visit and complain about the long waits and exorbitant cost to ride the cable cars. Next time that happens, send them to the San Francisco Cable Car Museum for their cable car fix, where they won't have to pay a penny or contend with any crowds. While it won't be the same as riding up the hills, they can learn all about the history and mechanics of our city's iconic street cars. In fact, it's a fun excursion that you might be tempted to tag along on. Engineers will enjoy watching the engines and winding wheels that pull the cables, as well as a few cars from the 1870s. For a faux-cable car experience, watch a documentary about the efforts to revitalize the system in the 1980s in a mini-theater constructed to resemble the front of a street car. Even if it's a bit touristy, you'll realize that there's still so much about San Francisco's history that you never knew.

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Museums • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Brunch for the Soul

At the corner of Mason and Market, where bustling downtown meets the unpredictable, gritty Tenderloin, farmbrown fuses soul food with sustainability. This spot supports local and African American farmers, and uses organic, biodynamic, and sustainable ingredients when possible. Art and prints of musicians, noted African American figures, and scenes from the city's musical past adorn the space. (You'll even find a funky, artsy collage of a smiling President Obama on the wall.) The green ceiling and "unfinished" dark walls give off a slightly industrial effect, as if you're in a converted warehouse, but the R&B and hip hop sounds of the DJ--and the energy of the live jazz during the weekend buffet--add a whole lot of soul to the experience. At its popular all-you-can-eat brunch (for $15), you sip water garnished with cucumber slices, drink zesty Bloody Marys, munch on crunchy, tasty bacon, and feast on fried chicken, grits, biscuits with gravy, dessert, and other items. The waitresses are friendly, the decor is thoughtfully planned yet feels unforced, and a cool, casual vibe is definitely present.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Paul Bunyan Approved

Wander into this Polk Street watering hole and transport yourself to a lazy, quirky "lodge" that feels like it's smack dab in the middle of the forest. With its wood-paneled walls, deer heads and stuffed furry animals on display, rustic decor, "antler chandeliers," and old-timey feel, you forget you're in Lower Nob Hill. In the afternoon, a mix of middle-aged men and happy hour enthusiasts scatter themselves up and down the bar, while the drunks of Polk Street nightlife crowd the space come evening. Try the Sasquatch, one of the joint's special cocktails, or stroll in between 3 and 7 pm, when well drinks are $4 and other selections are a buck off.

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Nightlife • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Wicked Awesome

Chances are, the only vacation you'll be taking this summer is a staycation. Those plans for show-hopping in New York or London will just have to wait. But you shouldn't be too bummed about being in San Francisco, though. You've still got great museums, restaurants, parks, and day treks. And this summer, you can get your fix of musical theater, too. Wicked has returned to the city in which it premiered and has extended its run. The show's cast may have changed, but its magic has not. Elphaba, Glinda, Nessarose, and Fiyero are just as entertaining as ever, delighting audiences whether they are watching for the first time or the fifth. Fans of the Wizard of Oz who have yet to be enchanted by this adaptation should definitely put it on their list of summer activities. So maybe staying home this year wasn't such a bad deal.

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Theaters-Performing Arts Centers • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Lush Life

This laid-back, hip establishment on the corner of Polk and Post never fails me, particularly on a lazy Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Nostalgic decor and movie memorabilia overtake the walls; odd, funky artifacts decorate the space; and an eclectic playlist of music blasts through the bar. The Bloody Marys are spicy, the mojitos are tart and refreshing, and the cocktails are made with care, especially if it's just you, the bartender, and a few regulars sipping their elixirs. You'll get popcorn to munch on, too, while you watch hipsters, bums, and trannies alike pass on through.

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Nightlife • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Fast, Cheap, and In Control

If you happen to find yourself working at the main library on Sundays and need to step out to grab some lunch, you'll quickly find that there just aren't many options available on that day of the week. Block after block is lined with restaurants locked up for the day. But if you're patient enough to walk up a few blocks in the Tenderloin and wait, Saigon Sandwiches, one of the area's most reliable spots, is open for business. You can't go wrong with the $3 banh mi, with their sumptuous meat and veggie fillings stuffed into a crusty baguette. Paired with one of the colorful coconut jelly drinks you won't spend more than $5. It's no-frills, for sure, but when you don’t need anything fancy, it hits the spot.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Freebie Paradise

Now that the economy's down, we need to make use of everything that's free. And one of the best free resources we have is San Francisco's Public Library system. Pretty much any book you've wanted to read can be found here, as is the case with many films you never got around to watching. Who needs Amazon or Netflix? Hundreds of U.S. and international newspapers can be found on its online database, as well as art museum images and sheet music. You can even use the Rosetta Stone Language Learning Program for free, so you can brush up on your Spanish or French or pick up Mandarin or Japanese. If you don't have a library card yet, signing up is quick and easy. There's really no reason not to.

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Landmarks , Libraries • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

The Taste of Tourists

The ubiquitous Lori's Diner can be found on Mason, Sutter, and Powell Streets, and on Ghirardelli Square. And yes, its omnipresence and its appeal to "nostalgic diners" can draw in many a tourist. If you don't time it right, the line on the Powell Street location can start snaking its way down the steep flight of stairs. But on our last visit on New Year's Day, my friend and I timed it just right and got there before the crowds. We were immediately seated, then greeted by a waiter who was charming and bubbly and therefore understood when we ordered bubbly (hair of the dog) mimosas. The food was tasty, the coffees (and mimosas) were strong, we were surrounded by much touristy happiness, and the fact that most of the clientele were out-of-towners reassured us that we could dine incognito after a long night of reveling.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Weather the Storm

My friend and I bumbled upon this restaurant on New Year's Eve at about 6 pm. When we told the host we had no reservations, he simply shrugged his shoulders and said, "I'll seat you before the big storm hits." We immediately felt the ridiculous pressure that can sometimes mount on New Year's to be whisked away. Although we spent a few minutes deliberating over the drink menu, we knew we would both end up ordering Bellinis to toast the night. My friend had the whole wheat spaghetti con pollo, and I had the sea bass with a raspberry sauce, mashed potatoes, and a medley of green beans, zucchini, and broccoli, and there wasn't much left on either of our plates. We split a delicious tiramisu and took down some coffee to make sure we made it until midnight, and our waitress didn't rush us, even after the promised "storm" hit and customers began to flood in. Good food, good service, and an absence of stress. The restaurant name promised, "You will like this." And we did.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Meatless Oblige

Don't try sneaking your KFC into this restaurant, because no animal products are allowed on the premises. The menu at the Golden Era Vegetarian Restaurant can be misleading though--you will still find most traditional Asian dishes like sweet and sour chicken and beef pho, but made with imitation meat that looks and tastes just like the real thing. Which works great for me, since I'm making an effort to wean myself off animal flesh. This way, I can still enjoy some of my favorite tasty dishes that just wouldn't be the same without "meat." And the offerings aren't limited to stereotypical Chinese fast food options--there are also some intriguing specialties like the tamarind fish clay pot and spicy lemongrass tofu. If only this place was closer to work, the meatless lifestyle would be a snap for me.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

A Date... With The Dated

Come share a drink with the oldest party animals you'll ever meet at The Big Four. There's no better way to feel young and rich than by drinking port in an old hunting lodge with a bunch of World War I Vets. A classy hotel bar amid those kinds of apartment buildings that have 24-hour security guards and Italian sculptures in the lobby, The Big Four offers the kind of cinematic old-San Francisco charm that makes you want to smoke a cigar and drink dry sherry out of a little tulip-sized glass. Try one of their gourmet snacks, and learn to sit like a lady/gentleman while you enjoy the people-watching. Maybe if you strike up a conversation, some lady with a Swarovski-encrusted purse will foot your bill.

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Nightlife , Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Forever Tango

It was Friday night, and I was witnessing a show of passion, humor, elegance, and magic rarely seen all in a single performance. Never having watched a tango show before, I didn't know what to expect from Forever Tango. But considering I would be watching some of the best dancers in the business, I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. In each vignette, I witnessed a combination of the talents of the sultry dancers, singers, musicians, and director Luis Bravo as they showcased the richness of Argentine culture with an attitude you certainly won't find at the ballet. And for all the passion that goes into each dance, there is also a degree of playfulness that I didn't expect to see. For anyone who saw the show during its previous runs in San Francisco, new numbers have been added to keep the show fresh and original, giving you reason to be seduced once again.

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Theaters-Performing Arts Centers • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Peanuts & Earplugs

Come to Hemlock when you just feel like throwing on a baseball cap and taking a chance on some live music. It's one of those places with peanut shells on the ground, a giant swordfish on the wall, and a hopelessly unattractive crowd. The girls' bathroom is essentially a toilet with a black shower curtain around it, but there's still plenty of classic wall dialog. On the plus side, the drinks are cheap ($4 for a beer), and the music is nice and loud. A great place to catch an up-and-coming band, with an unrivaled, got-to-shove-toilet-paper-in-your-ear-and-stand-on-a-chair intimacy. Cash only.

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Nightlife • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Faith Restored

I was getting ready to meet up with a friend for dinner in Union Square. But in thinking of a place to eat in the area, I was at a loss. Where should I go for a good, sit-down meal that would not wage an assault on my wallet, which had been suffering a lot of abuse lately? Thankfully, my sister made me aware of King of Thai Noodle House near Macy's. Trusting her suggestion, and figuring that Thai noodles are always reliable, my friend and I headed out and were pleasantly surprised to find that it was Zagat-rated, a rarity among the tourist and business joints in that corner of downtown. The noodles did not disappoint, and my faith in downtown dining options was restored.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Too Good (2BTrue)

Tu Lan's location on Sixth Street isn't the most desirable part of town, nor is the interior likely to earn a high mark for cleanliness. But don't let that deter you from enjoying the food, especially considering Julia Child once stopped by. Madame Child features prominently on menus, and the joint's most popular items are her favorites, the pork kebabs, ginger fish, and imperial rolls. Come hungry and bring friends--the food comes out superfast and portions are huge. There's so much to sample that you may find yourself coming back more times than you'd bargained for. If you still feel iffy about eating there, just order take-out for a picnic in Yerba Buena Gardens.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin

Home Again

When I'm overseas, I miss having certain Californian comfort foods, namely burritos, tacos, chow fun, and Pad Thai. When I'm back home, though, I find myself craving the things I've indulged in abroad. Like kebabs. Kebab stands don't dot our street corners the way they do in Europe, which makes it frustrating when I have a craving for a pita stuffed with juicy meat and salad. Which makes Gyro King, an otherwise unassuming Mediterranean joint, all the more exciting. Just the sight of meat grilling on the spit by the window makes me nostalgic for Europe. Not only has it got the usual falafel, gyros, kebabs, and platters, but also fresh hummus, baba ghanoush, dolmas, salads, homemade pastries, and desserts. It may not be in Berlin, but at least it serves up one of the best selections of Mediterranean cuisine in the city.

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Restaurants • Nob Hill / Tenderloin