New York

It is difficult to find a hamburger in New York that can even be mentioned in the same breath as Corner Bistro. The Bistro burger is practically the undisputed champion in the city. But Fanelli’s Café dishes up a mighty fine burger which can actually be compared to the Bistro with a straight face. Fanelli’s, an ancient pub with tin ceilings and rickety tables, may be the only place in SoHo without an air of pretension. And their burger reflects that attitude. It is a no frills, basic, old-fashioned hamburger. The extremely thick, juicy patty is served with a slice of onion, a slice of tomato, and bit of lettuce. The ground beef is flavorful, but the tastiest part of the experience may be the square onion roll in which it is served. The cheddar cheese comes melted onto the inside of the soft roll rather than the burger, making the Fanelli bun much more appetizing than Corner Bistro’s boring sesame version. And since Corner Bistro is almost always packed, Fanelli’s burger makes a delicious alternative.

Photo:  David Freedenberg